FRONTIER STONE AT RIVERA 192 TUNNEL AT BAÑADA DE ROCHA 192 EUCALYPTUS FOREST: PIRIAPOLIS 198 THE CASTILLO: PIRIAPOLIS 198 THE PAN DE AZUCAR MOUNTAIN 202 THE NEW HOTEL: PIRIAPOLIS 202 MERCEDES: FROM ACROSS THE RIO NEGRO 208 RIO NEGRO BRIDGE 212 ON THE RIO NEGRO 212 COLONIA: RUINED FORTRESS WALL 218 A CAMPO GRAVEYARD 218 THE BULL RING 222 ON THE URUGUAY RIVER 230 A URUGUAYAN STREAM 230 CATTLE ON THE ROAD 234 A CORNER OF THE FRAY BENTOS FACTORY 234 A PASTORAL SCENE 238 THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA 246 HEREFORD CATTLE ON THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA 246 ESTANCIA HOUSE: SAN JUAN 250 CHÂLET AT COLONIA SUIZA 258 THE VINTAGE: ESTANCIA SAN JUAN 258 STREAM ON THE SAN JUAN ESTANCIA 272 THE CATTLE DIP 280 DRYING JERKED MEAT 280 A SEAL ROOKERY 292 BASKING SEALS 292 OX WAGON ON THE CAMPO 316 CROSS-COUNTRY TRAVELLING 316 PEDIGREE CATTLE 320 OVEN BIRD'S NEST 320 URUGUAY CHAPTER I SURVEY Geographical situation of the Republic--Boundaries and area--Uruguay as an historical, commercial, and financial centre--The respective positions of Uruguay and Paraguay--Disadvantages of a buffer State--A land of sunshine and shadow--The history of Uruguay--The blending of industry and warfare--Vitality of the nation--Instances of self-sacrifice--A South American Switzerland--A freedom-loving folk--Deeds of arms and the undercurrents of commerce--Montevideo in the eyes of the casual traveller--Factors that make for the progress of the Banda Oriental--Influence of railway--Coming cessation of the North American beef shipments--Temperament of the Uruguayan--Distinction between Argentine and Uruguayan politics--The clans of the Banda Oriental--The birthright of party convictions--Education in Uruguay--National points of honour--Liberty accorded the foreigner--The courtesy of officials--An incident at the customs-house--Popularity of the English--A gratifying situation--Satisfactory international relations--The work of Mr. R. J. Kennedy, the British Minister Plenipotentiary--Uruguay's pacific foreign policy--Careful finance--Army and navy--General progress of the nation.