For the most part I have avoided what has been most frequently described. Athens, Olympia, and the much-visited Argive plain, I have not touched upon, because I did not wish to swell the book by telling thrice-told tales. I tell of what I have most enjoyed, in the hope that readers may feel with me the charm of this poet's land, which has, more than any other, "infinite riches in a little room." The slight alterations that I have made in the original form of the descriptions was made with the design of bringing them, in a measure, up to the present time. I have also arranged them on a geographical thread, running from the Ionian Islands, through Northern Greece to the Peloponnesus. The two larger articles, on Sicily and Dalmatia, are not simply tacked on. They belong to the subject, inasmuch as Sicily was an important part of Hellas, as the Greeks called their country, and inasmuch as Greek colonies once skirted the greater part of the coast of Dalmatia. In regard to the spelling of proper names, I have tried to shun unusual appearances. But I have great objection to changing all the Greek endings in _os_ into _us_, just because the Romans did so. I also object to changing the Greek _k_ into _c_ where it will surely be pronounced as an _s_. In the case of names that have become a part of our English speech, I have, however, admitted these changes. The result may not seem satisfactory, on account of the lack of a rigid system; but I trust that it will be pardoned. CONTENTS PAGE CORFU 3 A DAY IN ITHACA 13 DELPHI, THE SANCTUARY OF GREECE 24 DODONA 34 THE BICYCLE IN GREECE 47 ACARNANIA 54 ÆTOLIA 65 THERMOPYLÆ 79 THESSALY 90 AN ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN GREECE 104 A JOURNEY FROM ATHENS TO ERETRIA 111 TAYGETOS AND KITHÆRON 119 STYX AND STYMPHALUS 128 AN UNUSUAL APPROACH TO EPIDAUROS 140 MESSENE AND SANDY PYLOS 151 A TOUR IN SICILY 173 DALMATIA 208 ILLUSTRATIONS Bronze Charioteer Found at Delphi Frontispiece FACING PAGE