Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
From Waterloo to 1864 England exercised a protectorate over this and
the six other Ionian Islands. Ten successive Lord High Commissioners,
of whom Gladstone was one, and whose monuments profusely deck the
esplanade, represented here the majesty of England. The English built
the present fine system of roads--paid for, of course, in Ionian
money. A kindly feeling prevails toward England because she yielded
to the strong desire of the inhabitants for union with the kingdom of
Greece. But the fact that the English, on their departure, blew up the
principal fortification of the harbor on the island Vido, and carried
away all the guns from the other forts, left a sting. The dismantled
fort was paid for in Ionian money, but the exigencies of European
politics demanded the dismantling. Austria had as much to say about
that as England.
But, sweeping away the name of Corfu, which arose in the Middle Ages,
and transferring ourselves back of all this foreign occupation and
centuries of semi-barbarism, let us introduce ourselves to the Greek
Kerkyra of Thucydides. Passing southward, a half a mile or so from the
esplanade of the present city, one comes along an isthmus between two
old harbors to an elevated peninsula, on which now stands the King's
villa in a beautiful garden. Here one is overpowered by historic
associations. Here lay the proud Greek colony established by Corinth
in 734 <sc>B.C.</sc>, a colony that first set the example of filial
ingratitude, and, feeling itself stronger than the mother city, joined
battle with her and defeated her in the first great naval battle of
Greeks against Greeks, in 665 B.C. From this rising ground the eye
dimly discerns in the distance, near the mainland opposite the southern
end of the island, the Sybota Islands, where the later great naval
battle between mother city and colony in the presence of an Athenian
fleet gave the occasion for the dreadful Peloponnesian war. From this
inner harbor, now abandoned and still, nearly silted up and yearly
submitting to the encroachment of vines upon its borders, the proud
fleet of Alcibiades and Nicias sailed for Syracuse. It was the alliance
with Kerkyra, the key to the voyage to Sicily, that lured the Athenians
to that ruin.
Little of this Kerkyra remains above ground. Perhaps much may yet be
found below. About twelve years ago excavations by Carapanos laid
bare a great quantity of terra-cottas. Perhaps it was a terra-cotta
manufactory that he discovered. The ruins of an old Doric temple lie on
the surface of the ground near a spring in an olive grove on the side
of the peninsula looking toward the mainland. The situation, 100 feet
above the strait, among the olives and near an ancient fountain, makes
one feel that he could have joined in doing honor to the dryads and
naiads with the throng that used to meet here. One of the antiquarians
of Corfu has lately advanced the view that these remains are those not
of a temple but of a bath. Blessed bathers!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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