Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I managed with some difficulty and scramble to get off a letter to
you by yesterday’s post, which _ought_ to go by steamer from New York
to-day, bringing my narrative up to our arrival here. We found Lowell on
his verandah with his wife and friend, and sat there talking till ten. I
am not the least disappointed with him, Henry Cowper notwithstanding. I
have never met a more agreeable talker, and his kindness to me is quite
unbounded. Then he has not a grain of vanity in his composition, but is
as simple and truthful as the best kind of boy. The house is a wooden
one, as four-fifths of the houses in New England are. It is roomy, airy,
and furnished with quaint old heavy pieces, bureaus like ours, and solid
heavy little mahogany tables, all dating from the last century. The
plate in the same way is all of the Queen Anne shape, like your little
tea-service and my grandmother’s milk jugs and tea-pots which
George has. The plainness and simplicity of the living, too, is most
attractive. We breakfast at 8.30, beginning with porridge, and following
up with eggs, some hot dish, corn cakes, toast and fruit. Then there is
no regular meal till six--a terribly late and fashionable dinner hour
here, as the prevalent hour is two or three--and afterwards we have a
cup of coffee and crackers (good plain biscuits) and a glass of toddy
at ten. Miss Mabel and others have given us a desperate idea of the
difficulties as to service, but they certainly do not exist in this
establishment just now. The principal servant that we see is an Irish
girl, Rose by name, who reminds me of one of Mrs. Cameron’s servants
except that she is far more diligent. The ingenious way in which she hid
away all my wardrobe in the ample cupboards and recesses of the bureau
in my room was a perfect caution, and she whisks away my things and gets
them beautifully washed, wholly refusing to allow me to pay for them.
The parlour-maid is a little, slight, ladylike girl, who certainly is
not a first-rate waiter, but then there is no need of one. The dinner
is confined to one thing at a time--soup, sometimes fish, a joint, or
chickens, and a sweet. The Professor opens his own wine at the table and
passes it round, and very good it is, but one scarcely needs it in this
climate. A cook whose acquaintance I have also made, and an Irishman who
has been thirty years on the place in a roomy cottage, and attends to
the cows, garden, and farm of thirty acres, complete the establishment.
Mrs. Lowell, who is a very nice, quiet, and clever woman, is very fond
of flowers, and manages to keep a few beds going about the house,
and there are a number of very fine trees, so that though there is no
pretence to the neatness and finish of English grounds and garden, the
place has a thoroughly homely, cultivated atmosphere and look which is
very attractive, and the whole town of Cambridge seems to be made up of
just such houses. We have lost no time in lionising men and places.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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