Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
On Thursday we took the car into Boston and ascended the monument on
Bunker’s Hill, 290 steps up a dark spiral staircase. Lowell had never
been up it before, nor indeed has any native as far as I can find
out. The view at the top repays you thoroughly for the grind with the
thermometer at eighty in the shade. Boston Harbour, where the tea was
thrown out of the English ships in 1775, and> the whole town and suburbs
lie below you like a map, and are very striking. After descending we
hunted up a number of people, including young Holmes, our Colonel,
who was as charming as ever, absorbed in his law at which he is doing
famously, and resolved in his first holiday to revisit England. He came
out to dine, and fraternised immensely with R----, and with him a young
Howells, the editor of the Atlantic Monthly, whom Conway had brought to
our house years ago, and I had entirely forgotten. However he is a very
nice fellow, and I don’t think I betrayed my obliviousness. Next day,
Friday, we had a long country drive in the morning through broad avenues
lined with three fascinating wooden houses, each standing with plenty of
elbow-room in its own grounds, up to a wooded hill from which we got
a splendid view of the city. Then I went into Boston and called on the
Autocrat of the Breakfast Table, who is one of the best talkers I ever
met, and quite worthy to be the Colonel’s father. He is one of Motley’s
oldest friends, and deeply grieved, as all good men here, at his recall.
His chief talk was of his memories of his English visits, and the
folk he met, and so I find it with all the best men and women here.
Notwithstanding the bitterness which our press created during the war, I
am convinced that with a very little tact and judicious handling on our
side the international relations may be easily made all we can wish as
far as New England is concerned. Afterwards I sauntered about the town,
looking at some good statues in their park (Boston Common), and letting
the place sink into me. The Common is about the size, I should say, of
Green Park, but of a regular shape. It lies on the side of a hill at the
top of which are the State House and other public buildings and
private houses. It is well wooded with fine American and English elms
(pre-revolutionary, they say, but I don’t believe it. They are not used
to our elms, and I doubt whether any of these are 100 years old) on the
upper part and along the sides; the middle is a great playground for the
boys, who are diligent there all day at base-ball, our rounders, which
I should think must spoil the enjoyment of the place for ladies and
children. However they can always take to the pretty gardens at the
lower end, in which is a very fine equestrian statue of Washington, and
one of Everett by Story, by no means fine in my opinion. How should it
be, when he insisted on being taken with his arm right up in the air,
his favourite attitude in speaking, and stands up in that attitude
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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