Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I am glad to find that I shall be able to get off this one more
letter to you by regular post before we plunge away west for nearly
a fortnight. I do so long for you every now and then when there is
something to see which you would specially appreciate, not only then as
you well know, but then specially, in the glorious reaches of the Hudson
near West Point, for instance, where you have all the beauty of the
Scotch Highlands, with a hundred well-kept rich men’s houses, and a
monster hotel or two crowning some high point,--an excellent substitute,
in my view, for the ruined keeps of robber barons on the Rhine,--and
endless steamers and sloops, with their white sails and great tows, as
they call them, of a dozen large flats lashed together and bringing down
lumber and corn from the west, passing up and down; but, above all,
last night, when we went under the light of a glorious full moon and saw
these mighty falls from above, and then went down some 200 steps, and
along under the overhanging cliffs, till we actually got under the end
of the horse-shoe fall on the Canadian side, and looked up and saw
the moon through the falling water. Just as we descended, an American
gentleman and his daughter and an English girl with them came up, to
whom we gave our seats, and when we came back they were still there, so
we told them what we had seen and offered to escort them down. They were
delighted, and “papa” did not object, so down we all went, and so we had
a second treat behind the cataract, and being with these ladies made
me horribly wishful to get you there. The girl (Philadelphian) was very
pretty and simple, so I handed her over to R------, and gave my arm to
the English one. To-day we went across the ferry amid a great turbulence
of waters, and looked up at the descending rivers, to the English Church
on the opposite side. An American bishop preached, and afterwards we
walked on Goat Island, above and between the two falls, and saw such
effects of rainbows, and lilac and green and purple and pure white
surges, as it is utterly impossible to describe, but I shall try to do
it by the help of photographs when I get back. Then we had a bath in the
rush just above the Falls; you have a little room through which a slice
some four feet wide of the water is allowed to rush; you get in at the
side, in the back water, and then take hold of a short rope fixed close
above the rush, and let the waters seize and tear at you, which it does
with a vengeance, tugging as if it would carry off your legs and pull
you in two in the middle. You can get out of it in a moment by just
slewing yourself round, and the sensation is marvellously delicious. I
forget whether you had one of the baths at Geneva, where the blue Rhone
rushes through at about a third of the pace. That is the only bath I
ever remember the least to be compared to this above Niagara. But let me
see, I hadn’t got farther with you than our chateau on the Hudson.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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