Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Well, we left it on Friday after breakfast at about nine o’clock, and
travelled away steadily with only twenty minutes’ stop at Albany, where
we dined, and a quarter of an hour at Rochester. The greater part of the
road was decidedly pretty, especially the earlier part which ran along
the banks of the Hudson. We stopped at Rome, Syracuse, and Utica amongst
other places, all busy, stirring places apparently, with their streets
all converging on and open to the line of rail. Every one has to look
out for themselves, and you get in and out of the trains at your own
peril. I have heard of very few accidents, and I don’t believe there are
as many as with us; but I should think a good many people must often
be left behind, as the train starts without any signal, leaving you to
climb in as you can, an easy enough feat for an active man, but scarcely
for any one else. This journey was our first really long one; we did
not get to Suspension Bridge, where we slept, till past midnight, but I
didn’t find it very tiring. There was a drawing-room car on, but I would
not go in it. The other cars are quite comfortable enough, and I like
seeing and being with the people, though they continue to be the most
silent and reserved of any race I have ever been amongst. Next day
(Saturday) just glanced at the Falls; we ran round the west of Lake
Ontario, by Hamilton, to Toronto, the capital of the province, and were
exceedingly struck and pleased with the signs of vigour and prosperity
both in the country and cities. The farming is certainly cleaner and
better than on the American side of the lake, and the towns don’t lose
by comparison with those of the same size over the border. At Toronto
I found Dymond, one of my best Lambeth supporters, in the Globe Office,
and we called on one of our _Peruvian_ acquaintances, who regaled us
with champagne in his huge store; we went over the law courts and
other public buildings, dined, and then on to the boat to cross back to
Niagara. It is about two hours’ sail and very pleasant. There were quite
a number of young and pretty girls on board going across for the trip,
as you might drive out in a carriage to any suburb. It seems the regular
afternoon amusement and lounge, and the heads of families take season
tickets which pass all their belongings. There were three Canadian
M.P.’s also on board, with whom I got a good deal of useful and pleasant
chat; one of them (M.P. for Niagara) induced me to “drink” twice in
ginger-ale and brandy, and again in champagne, which was the first
instance of that pressingly convivial habit supposed to be universal
on this side that I have seen. I am uncommonly glad it doesn’t really
prevail, as nothing I detest more than this irregular kind of drinking.
The pick-me-up is decidedly one of the most loathsome inventions of
a decrepit civilisation. We got to our hotel here, right opposite
the Falls, by about six, saw them first before tea and afterwards by
moonlight, as I have already narrated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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