Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Presently the Emperor and Empress came down, and the
carriage passed at a foot’s pace through the saluting and pleased crowd.
The Empress is the most charming-looking royal personage I have ever
seen, and seemed to think it quite right that the people should occupy
her house and grounds. Fancy omnibuses driving into the Court-yard
of Buckingham Palace, and John Bull proceeding to occupy the private
gardens! John himself would decidedly think that the end of the world
was come. The Constitution, too, seems to work well from all I heard.
The Court party has ceased almost to struggle for power. It revenges
itself, however, in social life. Society (so called) is more exclusive
in Vienna than anywhere else, and consists of some 400 or 500 persons
all told. Even the most distinguished soldiers and statesmen have not
the _entrée_. Benedek’s family is not in society, nor Schmerling’s,
though I hear his daughter is one of the prettiest and most ladylike
girls in Austria. All which is very silly, doubtless, but the chief
sufferers are the 400 inhabitants who drive in the Prater, and go to
the Leichtenstein and Schwartzenburg parties, and after all, if
aristocracies in the foolish sense are inevitable, an aristocracy of
birth is preferable to one of money, or, _me judice_, of intellect,
seeing that the latter gives itself at least as absurd airs, and is
likely to be much more mischievous. On the other hand, my Hungarian
sympathies have been somewhat shaken since visiting the country. I
suppose the national dress has something to say to it. An Englishman
cannot swallow braided coats, and tight coloured pants, and boots all
at once, and the carriage and airs of the men are offensive. I say this
more on the judgment of several of my country-women on this point than
on my own, but from my own observation I can say that Pesth, to a mere
passer-by, has all the appearances of the most immoral capital in the
world. In the best shops, in the best streets, there are photographs and
engravings exhibited which, with us, would speedily call Lord Campbell’s
Act into operation. And the Haymarket is in many respects moral in
comparison with many parts of Pesth. It is the only place in Europe
where I have seen men going about drunk before midday. In short, you
will perceive that my inspection inclines me to suspect that there may
he more than one has been wont to believe in the assertion, that the
Constitution we hear so much of is aristocratic and one which will
give back old feudal privileges to a conquering race and enable them
to oppress Slaves, Croats, etc., as they did before 1848. There is,
everybody admits, a large discontented class in Hungary, composed
chiefly of the poor nobility (who have long ago spent their compensation
money), and professional men, especially advocates, but it is
strenuously maintained that the great mass of the people have been far
better off in all ways and more contented since 1849. I don’t pretend
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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