Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
written after he had mapped the Quebec reaches of the St. Lawrence
under the fire of the French guns, and was a gold-medallist of the Royal
Society and the most famous of eighteenth century navigators, is still
fondly pointed out in a narrow street running down to the inner harbour.
Sunday by the Sea, Whitby, 7th September 1888.
We saw something of the industrial life of Whitby last week. The
spiritual is quite as interesting, and certainly, so far as my
observation goes, has a character of its own, distinct from that of any
other of our popular seaside resorts. It may be the presence of so
large a seagoing element; at any rate, unless appearances are quite
misleading, there is an earnest and deep though quiet religious impulse
working amongst the harbour-folk and townspeople, not without its
influence in the new quarter which has grown on to the old town, and
with its casino and large cricket and lawn tennis grounds, is becoming a
popular--though, happily, not a fashionable--summer resort. This is, of
course, most apparent on Sundays, on which the absence of anything like
the annoyances, both religious and secular, which spoil the day of
rest at so many health-resorts, is very noteworthy. Not that Whitby is
without its open-air services. On the contrary, they are at least as
frequent as elsewhere, on quays, shore, cliffs; but after watching them
with some care I do not remember anything fanatical or startling, or
in the bad taste of coarse familiarity with mysteries which so often
revolts one in street and field preaching elsewhere. One of these I had
never seen the like of before, and am inclined to think it may interest
your readers. On my first Sunday afternoon I was watching a crowded
service on the quay, at the foot of the West Cliff, from above. As it
ended, and began to disperse, a man in sailor’s Sunday suit of thick
blue cloth severed himself from the crowd, and came leisurely up the
stone steps, with a Bible and hymn-book in his hand. At the top of the
steps is a public grass-plot, some thirty by twenty yards in size, the
only part of the sea-front which has escaped enclosure on this cliff.
Round it are some fifteen or sixteen benches, very popular with those
who will not pay to go into the casino enclosure. They were all occupied
by people chatting, smoking, courting, looking at the view, when the
newcomer walked into the middle of the plot, took off his fur-trimmed
sailor’s cap, opened his Bible, and looked round. He was good to look
at, with his strong, weather-beaten, bronzed features, short-cropped,
grizzled hair, and kindly blue eye, part-owner and best man in one of
the Penzance boats, I heard. On looking at him, passages in the lives
of Drake and Hawkins, and Wesley and Whitfield, and Charles Kingsley’s
loving enthusiasm for the Cornish sailor-folk, became clearer to me. Not
a soul noticed him or moved from their seats, and the talking, smoking,
courting went on just as though he were not there, standing alone on
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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