Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
rock-salmon--brought in by the smaller and less venturesome boats by
dozens, not by lasts of ten thousand. Take the cod as the most valuable
of these fish. I saw four fine cod-fish sold by auction yesterday on the
quay for 5s. 3d. Within a few hundred yards, and all over the town, cod
was selling at the shops at 6d. the pound. Surely a very moderate amount
of organising ability would enable those who catch these fish to get the
retail prices prevailing on the same day in the home market, and then
the experience gained might assist materially in the solution of the
larger problem.
Meantime, besides the almost unique interest and beauty of its
surroundings,--the steep cliffs, on which the quaint old red-roofed
houses, with their wooden balconies, are piled in most picturesque and
unaccountable groups; the grand old abbey ruin looking down from the
highest point; the swing-bridge between the two harbours, and the
estuary beyond, running up into a fine amphitheatre of green meadow and
dark wood, dotted with village churches and old windmills, and backed by
the high moors,--there is a joyous side to Whitby harbour, even on days
when the market goes most against the Dogger Bank fishermen. If the
fathers have too often to eat sour grapes, their children’s teeth are
not set on edge,--such merry, well-fed, bare-footed urchins of both
sexes I never remember to have seen elsewhere. They swarm, out of school
hours, along the quays; skim up and down the water-worn harbour-walls
wherever there is a rope hanging; run over the herring boats lying side
by side, as soon as the freights are cleared; and toboggan down the boat
slides at the gangways, dragging themselves along on their stomachs when
these are not slippery enough for the usual method of descent. There
seems, too, to be a large supply of old rickety tubs kept for their
special use; for all day long you see two or three of them scrambling
into one of these, and sculling about the harbour, no man hindering or
apparently noticing them. Finer training for their future life would be
hard to find, and one cannot help doubting as one sees their straight
toes, as handy almost as fingers in their climbing feats, whether the
last word has been spoken as to clothing the human foot, at any rate up
to the age of ten or twelve. It is not often, I think, that one comes
on early surroundings and heroes entirely suited to each other; but
Whitby’s hero--patron saint I had nearly called him--could have found
no such suitable place to have been raised in all the world round. James
Cook was born in a neighbouring village, but first apprenticed on board
a Whitby collier, and to the last days of his life retained a most
loving remembrance of the old town. Every one of his famous ships,
the _Endeavour_, the _Resolution_, and the _Discovery_, were built at
Whitby. The house, of his master, Mr. Walker, with whom he lived during
his apprenticeship as a sailor lad, and to whom most of his letters were
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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