Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I am surprised that this route is not more popular with the increasing
numbers of our people who like a short run to the south of France in our
hard spring weather. You can get by this way to Bordeaux quicker than
you can by Dover or Folkestone from any place north of Trent, unless you
travel day and night, and sleep on the trains, and for about half
the money. The packets are cargo-boats, but with excellent cabins and
sleeping accommodation for twelve or fourteen passengers, including as
good a bath as on a Cunard or White Star liner. And yet I was the only
passenger last week. There can scarcely be a more interesting short
voyage for any one who is a decent sailor; but I suppose the fourteen
or sixteen hours “in the Bay of Biscay, oh!” scares people. As far as my
experience goes, the Atlantic roars like a sucking-dove in the Channel
and the Bay at Easter-time. There was not wind enough to dimple the
ocean surface, and until we passed Milford Haven, no perceptible motion
on the ship. Then, as we crossed the opening of the Bristol Channel,
she began to roll--quite unaccountably, as it seemed at first; but
on watching carefully, one became aware that, though the surface was
motionless, the great deep beneath was heaving with long pulsations
from the west, which lifted us in regular cadence every thirty or forty
seconds. I have often crossed the Atlantic, but never seen the like, as
always before there has been a ripple on the calmest day, which gave the
effect, at any rate, of surface motion. The best idea I can give of it
is, if on a long stretch of our South Downs the successive turf slopes
took to rising and falling perpendicularly every minute. The Captain
said there must have been wild weather out west, and these were the
rollers. It was a grand sight to watch the great heave pass on till
it reached the Land’s End, and ran up the cliffs there. We passed near
enough to see the mining works, close to the level of high-tide, and the
villages on the cliff-tops above, or clinging on to the slopes wherever
these were not too precipitous. One can realise what manner of men and
sailors this Ear West has bred of old, and, I hope, still breeds. I pity
the Englishman whose pulse does not quicken as he sails by the Land’s
End, and can see with a glass some of the small harbours out of which
Drake and Frobisher and Hawkins sailed, and drew the crews that followed
and fought the Armada right away to the Straits of Dover.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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