Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
big bones and muscle, whom he pointed out to me--was in the deepest
part of the hold up to his arm-pits, and had worked there for ten hours
without coming up! He was a R.N.R. man, like the old carpenter and
most of the rest. The old fellow was one of the staunchest and best
followers, probably because he was tired of going aground. He had been
aground seventeen times! for the Captain in his last ship had a way
of charging shoals, merely saying, “Oh, she’ll jump it!” which she
generally declined to do. The Captain is a strong Churchman, but shares
the prejudice against carrying ministers. “The devil always has a show”
when you’re carrying a minister. The first time he tried it, he was
taking out his own brother, and they were twenty-two days late at
Montreal. It was an awful crossing, a gale in their teeth all the way;
most of the ships that started with them had to put back. I suggested
that if he hadn’t had his brother on board, he mightn’t have got over
at all; but he wouldn’t see it. Next time, a man fell from the mast-head
and was killed; and the next, a man jumped overboard. He would never
carry a minister again if he could help it.
One pilot took us out to Holyhead, but it took three French ones to
take us up to Bordeaux. The Garonne banks are only picturesque here and
there; but the flat banks have their own interest, for do we not see
the choicest vineyards of the claret country as we run up? There was
the Chateau Lafitte and the Chateau Margaux. I suppose one ought within
one’s heart, or rather, within one’s palate perhaps, “to have felt a
stir”--
As though one looked upon the sheath
Which once had clasped Excalibur.
But I could not tell the difference between Margaux and any decent
claret with my eyes shut, so I did not feel any stir--unless, perhaps,
as a patriot, when we passed much the most imposing establishment, and
the Captain said, “That is Chateau Gilbey”! I looked with silent wonder,
for did I not remember years ago, when the Gladstone Grocers’ Licences
Bill was young, and the Christie Minstrels sung scoffingly--
Ten little niggers going out to dine,
One drank Gilbey, and then there were nine?
And here was Gilbey with the finest “caves” and the choicest vineyard
in the Bordelaise! Who can measure the competitive energy of the British
business-man?
I must end as I set out, with the birds. As we neared the mouth of
the Garonne, sixteen miles from land, the Captain said, two little
water-wagtails flitted into the rigging. There they rested a few
minutes, and then, to my grief, started off out to sea, but again
and again came hack to the ship. At last a sailor caught one, and the
Captain secured it and took it to his cabin, but thought it would be
sure to die. It was the hen-bird. She did not die, but flitted away
cheerfully when he brought her out and let her fly on the quay of
Bordeaux. But I fear she will never find her mate.
Lourdes, 15th April 1893.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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