Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The Eastern question! It is very easy indeed to have distinct notions
on the Eastern question. I had once, not very long ago neither. Of
course, like every Englishman, I was for fighting, sooner than the
Russians, or any other European Power, should come to the Bosphorus
without the leave of England, and that as often as might be necessary,
and quite apart from any consideration as to the internal state of the
country. But as for the Turks, I as much thought that their time was
about over in Europe as the Czar Nicholas when he talked of the sick
man to Sir Hamilton Seymour. They were a worn-out horde, the degenerate
remnant of a conquering race, who were keeping down with the help of
some of the Christian Powers, ourselves notably amongst the number,
Christian subjects--Bulgarians, Servians, Greeks, and others--more
numerous and better men than themselves. I could never see why these
same Christian subjects should not be allowed to kick the Turks out of
Europe if they could, or why we should take any trouble to bolster them
up. Perhaps I do not see yet why they should not be allowed, if they
can do it by themselves; but I am free to acknowledge that the Eastern
question, the nearer you get to it, and the more you look into it,
like many other political questions, gets more and more puzzling and
complicated and turns up quite a new side to you. A week or two on the
Bosphorus spent in looking about one, and sucking the brains of men of
all nations who have had any experience of this remarkable country, make
one see that there is a good deal to be said for wishing well to the
Turks, notwithstanding their false creed and bad practices. I hear here
the most wonderfully contradictory evidence about these Turks. They have
one quality of a ruling nation assuredly in perfection--the power of
getting themselves heartily hated. But so far as I could test them, the
common statements as to their dishonesty and corruption are vague and
general if you try to sift them, and I find that even those who abuse
them are apt in practice to prefer them to Creeks, Armenians, or any
other of the subject people in these parts. On the other hand, you
certainly do hear much of the honesty of the lower classes of the Turks.
For instance, it seems that contracts are scarcely ever made here in
writing, and in actions of debt if a Turk will appear and swear that he
was never indebted, the case is at an end, and he walks out of court
a free man. Admiral Slade, amongst his other functions, is judge of a
court which is a sort of mixture of an Admiralty and County Court,
in which he tries very many actions of debt in the year. After an
experience of nearly three years he told my informant that he had had
only two cases in which a defendant had adopted this summary method of
getting out of his difficulties. Again in the huge maze of bazaars in
Stamboul there is a quarter, some sixty yards square, at least, I should
say, which is _par excellence_ the Turkish bazaar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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