Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Commissioner’s Report appears in due course, the contents of which I
have neither the knowledge nor the wish to anticipate. The settlement,
for the present, at least, of the Servian and Montenegrin difficulties
are further proofs, it seems to me, of the vigour and ability of the
present Government. But still, giving the Turkish statesmen now in power
full credit for all they have done, one cannot help feeling that this
Eastern question is full of the most enormous difficulties, is, in
short, about the most complicated of all the restless, importunate,
ill-mannered questions that are crying out “Come, solve me,” in this
troublesome old continent of ours.
For it hardly needs a voyage to the East to convince any man who cares
about such matters that this Turkish Empire is in a state of solution.
If one did want convincing on the point, a few days here would be enough
to do it. Let him spend a few hours as I did last week at the Sweet
Waters of Asia on a Turkish Sunday (Friday), and he will scarcely want
further proof. The Sweet Waters of Asia are those of a muddy little
rivulet, which flow into the sparkling Bosphorus some four miles above
Constantinople. Along the side of this stream, at its junction with the
Bosphorus, is a small level plain, which has been for I know not how
long the resort of the Turkish women. Here they come once a week on
their Sundays, to look at the hills and the Bosphorus without the
interference of blinds and jalousies, and at some other human beings
besides the slaves and other inmates of their own harems. You arrive
there in a caique, and find yourself at a jump plump in the middle of
the Arabian Nights’ Entertainments. The Sultan has built a superb kiosk
(summer-house) here, with a façade and balustrade of beautiful white
marble, one hundred yards long, fronting the Bosphorus. (They tell me,
by the way, that the whole kiosk is of the same white marble, and so
it may be, but, at any rate, if it be, it is most superfluously
covered with yellow stucco.) Outside the enclosure of his kiosk, at the
Bosphorus end of the little plain, and some fifty yards from the shore,
is a fine square marble fountain, with texts from the Koran in green and
gold upon it, and steps all round. A few plane-trees give a little shade
round it. On all the steps of the fountain, along the kiosk garden wall,
under the plane-trees, and out on the turf of the valley, are seated
Turkish women of every rank, from the Grand Vizier’s wife and family,
on superbly embroidered cushions and carpets, and cloaked in the most
fascinating purple and pink silks, down to poor men’s wives, in faded
stuffs, on old scraps of drugget which a rag-collector would scarcely
pick out of the gutter. Others of the veiled women are driving
slowly round the little plain in the strangest carriages, just like
Cinderella’s coach in the children’s books, or in arabas drawn by two
oxen, and ornamented with silk or cotton hangings. Here the poor women
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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