Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
exceeded anything I had ever dreamt of. Every one is familiar with
the shape and position and colour of the ruins from photographs and
paintings. We look at them and admire, and suppose they grew there, or
at any rate scarcely give a thought to how they did get there.
But I’ll defy any man to walk up the Propylæa and about the Parthenon
without being struck with wonder at the simple question, how it all got
there. Can the stories we have all been taught be true? Leaving beauty
altogether out of the question, here you are in the midst of the wreck
of one of the largest buildings you ever were in. You see that it was
built of blocks of white marble; that the columns are formed of these
blocks, each some four feet high, and so beautifully fitted together
that at the distance of two thousand years you very often cannot find
the joints, except where the marble is chipped. You see that the whole
of this building was originally surrounded by most elaborate sculpture;
you see that the whole side of the hill up which you approach the
great temple was converted into a magnificent broad staircase of white
marble--in short, you see probably the greatest architectural feat that
has ever been done in the world, and are told that it was done by a
small tribe--not more numerous than the population of a big English
town--who lived in that little barren corner of earth which you can
overlook from end to end from your standing-place, in the lifetime of
one generation; that Pericles thought the idea out, and the Athenians
quarried the marble, carried it up there, carved it, and built it up, in
his lifetime. Well, it _is_ hard to believe; but when one has sat down
on one of the great blocks, and looked over Salamis and Ægina, and the
Isthmus of Corinth, and then down at the groves of the Academy and
the Pynx and the Areopagus, and remembered that at this very time the
thoughts, and methods of thought, of that same small tribe are still
living, and moulding the minds of all the most civilised and powerful
nations of the earth, the physical wonder, as usual, dwarfs and gives
way before the spiritual. We saw the sunset, of course, from the front
of the Parthenon, and then descended to the Areopagus, and stood on,
or at any rate within a few feet of, the place where the glorious old
Hebrew of the Hebrews stood, and looking up at those marvellous temples
made by man, spoke a strange story in the ears of the crowd, whose only
pleasure was to hear or tell some new thing. It is the only place where
I have ever come in my journeyings right across the Scripture narrative,
and certainly the story shines out with new light after one has stood on
the very rock, and felt how the scene before Paul’s eyes must have moved
him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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