Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
That great work, the _Sartor Resartus_, should have contained a chapter
on bathing-dresses, and I have no doubt would have done so had the
author been a frequenter of French watering-places. Each of these--even
such a little place as Treport--has its _établissement des bains_, its
etiquettes and rules as to the dress and comportment of its bathing
populations; and Dieppe is the largest, and not the least quaint, of
them all. The _établissement_ here is a long glass and iron building
like the Crystal Palace, with a dome in the middle, under which there
are daily concerts and nightly balls; and a transept at each end, one
of which is a very good reading-room, while in the other a mild kind
of gambling goes on, under the form of a lottery, for smelling bottles,
clocks, and such like ware. I am told that the play here is by no means
so innocent as it looks, and that persons in search of investments for
spare cash can be accommodated to any amount, but to a stranger nothing
of this discloses itself. Between this building and the sea there runs a
handsome esplanade, the favourite promenade, and immediately underneath
are the rows of little portable canvas huts which serve as bathing
machines. The ladies bathe under one end of the esplanade, and the
gentlemen under the other, while the fashionable crowd leans over,
or sits by the low esplanade wall, inspecting the proceedings.
This contiguity is, no doubt, the cause of the wonderful toilets,
_spécialités des bains_, which fill the shops here, and are used by all
the ladies and many of the men. They consist of large loose trousers and
a jacket with skirts, made of fine flannel or serge, of all shades of
colour according to taste, and of waterproof bathing caps, all of which
garments are trimmed with blue, or pink, or red bows and streamers. Over
all the _baigneurs comme il faut_ throw a large cloak, also tastefully
trimmed. Thus habited the lady walks out of her hut attended by a maid,
to whom when she reaches the water’s edge she hands her cloak, and,
taking the hand of one of the male _baigneurs_, proceeds with such
plunges and dancings as she has a fancy for, and then returns to the
shore, is enveloped in her cloak by her maid, and re-enters her hut.
These male _baigneurs_ are a necessary accompaniment of the performance.
I have only heard of one case of resistance to the custom, which ended
comically enough. A young Englishman, well known in foreign society, was
here with his wife, who insisted on bathing, but vowed she would go into
the water with no man but her husband. He consented, and in due course
appeared on the ladies’ side with his pretty wife, in most discreet
apparel, went through the office of _baigneur_, and returned to his own
side. This raised a storm among the lady bathers, and the authorities
interfered. The next day the lady went to the gentlemen’s side; but this
was even more scandalous, and was also forbidden. The persecuted couple
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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