Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I came back in one of the daily packets to London Bridge, which, besides
carrying seventy passengers, was piled fore and aft with cargo. There
were 400 cases of wine on deck, besides other packages, which sorely
curtailed our walking privileges. But the boats are good boats, and the
voyage past Dover, through the Downs, round the North Foreland, and up
the Thames, is so full of life and interest that it is well worth making
a long day of it, if one is a moderately good sailor. The advertisements
call it eight and a half hours, which means eleven; but it is not a
moment too long.
Blankenberghe
Yesterday (14th August) we were warned by meagre fare at the _table
d’hôte_ of our hotel that it was the vigil of some saint’s day. Our
gastronomic knowledge was enlarged by the opportunity of partaking
of boiled mussels. A small and delicate species of this little
fish--despised of Englishmen--is found in extraordinary quantities on
this coast. The sand is dotted with the shells after every ebb. The
wattles of the jetties are full of them. After the first shock of having
a salad bowl full of small black shells presented to one, following
immediately on a delicate _potage à l’oseille_, the British citizen may
pursue his education in this direction fearlessly, with the certainty of
becoming acquainted with a delicate and appetising morsel; and he will
return to his native country with at least a toleration for “winks” and
“pickled whelks,” when he sees them vended at corner stalls in Clare
Market or in the Old Kent Road, for the benefit of the dangerous classes
of his fellow-citizens who take their meals in the street. In these
Flemish parts they are eaten with bread and butter, and even as
whitebait, and by all classes.
After the meal I consulted the calendar in my pocket-book as to the
approaching festival, not wishing to thrust my heretical ignorance
unnecessarily on the notice of the simple folk who inhabit the _Lion
d’Or_. That obstinately Protestant document, however, informed me simply
that the Rev. E. Irving was born on this day in 1792, probably not the
saint I was in quest of. A _Churchman’s Almanac_, with which the only
English lady in the place was provided, was altogether silent as to
the day. In the end, therefore, I was obliged to fall back upon the
bright-eyed little _demoiselle de la maison_, who informed me that it
was the vigil of the Assumption of the Virgin, and that the _fête_ was
one greatly honoured by the community of Blankenberghe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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