Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The fifth meal to which the reader is invited was one corresponding to
our “business man’s lunch.” The clients were wholesale merchants,
brokers, lawyers, and the like. In its furnishings the place was rather
sumptuous, but as much cannot be said of its food. My own luncheon
consisted of a turnip soup, roast veal (a mere shaving of it, as
tasteless as deteriorated rubber), with one potato, a “German
beefsteak,” some inedible mystery dubbed “lemon pudding,” and a small
bottle of water—beer was no longer served in this establishment. The
bill, including the customary forced tip, was nineteen mk. eighty, and
the scornful attitude of the waiter proved that it was considerably less
than the average. Even here the majority of the dishes were some species
of _Ersatz_, and the meat itself was so undernourished that it had
virtually no nourishment to pass on. Of ten pounds of it, according to
the wholesale butcher who sat opposite me, at least five disappeared in
the cooking. Finish such a meal at one and you were sure to be ragingly
hungry by three. Yet there was less evidence of “profiteering” in
establishments of this kind in Berlin than I had expected. The ice-cold
bottle of mineral water, for instance, cost forty-five pfennigs, a mere
four cents to foreigners. The German does not seem to go over his entire
stock daily and mark it higher in price irrespective of its cost to him,
as in Paris and, I fear, in our own beloved land.
But there was one restaurant in Berlin where a real meal, quite free
from _Ersatz_, could still be had, by those who could pay for it—the
famous Borchardt’s in Französischerstrasse. Situated in the heart of the
capital, in the very shadow of the government that issues those stern
decrees against “underground” traffic in foodstuffs, it was protected by
the rich and influential, and by the same government officials whose
legal duty it was to suppress it. Admittance was only by personal
introduction, as to a gambling club. The only laws this establishment
obeyed were in the serving of bread and the use of paper in place of
table linen. Meatless days meant nothing to its chefs; many articles
specifically forbidden in restaurants were openly served to its
fortunate guests. It depended, of course, entirely on _Schleichhandel_
for its supplies. Among the clients, on the evening in question, were
generals out of uniform, a noted dealer in munitions, a manufacturer of
army cloth, several high government officials, two or three Allied
correspondents, and Bernsdorff’s right-hand “man” in several of his
American trickeries—in a silky green gown that added to the snaky effect
of her serpent-like eyes. It was she who “fixed” so thoroughly the
proposed attack on us from Mexico during the early days of 1917.
Four of us dined together, and this is a translation of the bill:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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