Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
A little episode at my departure suggested that the ever-obedient German
of Kaiser days was changing in character. The second-class coach was
already filled when I entered it, except that at one end there was an
empty compartment, on the windows of which had been pasted the word
“_Bestellt_.” In the olden days the mere announcement that it was
“engaged” would have protected it as easily as bolts and bars. I decided
to test the new democracy. Crowding my way past a dozen men standing
obediently in the corridor, I entered the forbidden compartment and sat
down. In a minute or two a seatless passenger put his head in at the
door and inquired with humble courtesy whether it was I who had engaged
the section. I shook my head, and a moment later he was seated beside
me. Others followed, until the compartment was crowded with passengers
and baggage. One of my companions angrily tore the posters from the
windows and tossed them outside.
“_Bestellt_ indeed!” he cried, sneeringly. “Perhaps by the Soldiers’
Council, eh? I thought we had done away with those old favoritisms!”
A few minutes later a station porter, in his major’s uniform, appeared
at the door with his arms full of baggage and followed by two
pompous-looking men in silk hats. At sight of the throng inside he began
to bellow in the familiar old before-the-war style.
“This compartment is _bestellt_,” he vociferated, in a crown-princely
voice, “and it remains _bestellt_! You will all get out of there at
once!”
No one moved; on the other hand, no one answered back. The porter fumed
a bit, led his charges farther down the train, and perhaps found them
another compartment; at any rate, he never returned. “Democracy” had
won. Yet through it all I could not shake off the feeling that if any
one with a genuinely bold, commanding manner, an old army officer, for
instance, decorated with all the thingamabobs of his rank, had ordered
the compartment vacated, the occupants would have filed out of it as
silently and meekly as lambs.
The minority still ruled in more ways than one. A placard on the wall,
forbidding the opening of a window without the unanimous consent of the
passengers within the compartment, was strictly obeyed. The curtains had
long since disappeared, as had the leather straps with which one raised
or lowered the sash, which must now be manipulated by hand. As in the
occupied zone, the seats had been stripped of their velvety coverings,
suggesting that this had been no special affront to the Allies, but
merely a sign of the scarcity of cloth for ladies’ blouses. It was a
cloudless Sunday, and railway employees along the way were taking
advantage of it to work in their little vegetable gardens, tucked into
every available corner. They did not neglect their official duties,
however, for all that. At every grade crossing the uniformed guard stood
stiffly at attention, his furled red flag held like a rifle at his side,
until the last coach had passed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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