Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
At Spandau there lay acre upon acre of war material of every species,
reddening with rust and overgrowing with grass and weeds. The sight of
it aroused a few murmurs of discontent from my companions. But they soon
fell back again into that apathetic silence that had reigned since our
departure. A few had read awhile the morning papers, without a sign of
feeling, though the head-lines must have been startling to a German,
then laid them languidly aside. Apparently the lack of nourishing food
left them too sleepy to talk. The deadly apathy of the compartment was
quite the antithesis of what it would have been in France; a cargo of
frozen meat could not have been more uncommunicative.
The train showed a singular languor, due perhaps to its _Ersatz_ coal.
It got there eventually, but it seemed to have no reserve strength to
give it vigorous spells. The station we should have passed at noon was
not reached until one-thirty. Passengers tumbled off _en masse_ and
besieged the platform lunch-room. There were _Ersatz_ coffee, _Ersatz_
cheese, watery beer, and war-bread for sale, the last only “against
tickets.” I had not yet been supplied with bread-coupons, but a
fellow-passenger tossed me a pair of them and replied to my thanks with
a silent nod. The nauseating stuff seemed to give the traveler a bit of
surplus energy. They talked a little for the next few miles, though in
dreary, apathetic tones. One had recently journeyed through the occupied
area, and reported “every one is being treated fairly enough there,
especially by the Americans.” A languid discussion of the Allies ensued,
but though it was evident that no one suspected my nationality, there
was not a harsh word toward the enemy. Another advanced the wisdom of
“seeing Germany first,” insisting that the sons of the Fatherland had
been too much given to running about foreign lands, to the neglect of
their own. Those who carried lunches ate them without the suggestion of
an offer to share them with their hungry companions, without even the
apologetic pseudo-invitation of the Spaniard. Then one by one they
drifted back to sleep again.
The engine, too, seemed to pick up after lunch—or to strike a
down-grade—and the thatched Gothic roofs of Mechlenburg soon began to
dot the flat landscape. More people were working in the fields; cattle
and sheep were grazing here and there. Groups of women came down to the
stations to parade homeward with their returning soldier sons and
brothers. Yet after the first greeting the unsuccessful warriors seemed
to tire of the welcome and strode half proudly, half defiantly ahead,
while the women dropped sadly to the rear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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