Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The snow had left the trees of Trier beautiful in their winding-sheets,
but the streets had already been swept. It seemed queer, yet, after
sixteen months of similar experience in France, a matter of course to be
able to ask one’s way of an American policeman on every corner of this
ancient German town. In the past eight years I had been less than two in
my native land, yet I had a feeling of knowing the American better than
ever before; for to take him out of his environment is to see him in
close-up perspective, as it were. Even here he seemed to feel perfectly
at home. Now and then a group of school-girls playfully bombarded an M.
P. with snowballs, and if he could not shout back some jest in genuine
German, he at least said something that “got across.” The populace gave
us our fair half of the sidewalk, some making a little involuntary
motion as if expecting an officer to shove them off it entirely, in the
orthodox Prussian manner. Street-cars were free to wearers of the “Sam
Browne”; enlisted men paid the infinitesimal fare amid much good-natured
“joshing” of the solemn conductor, with his colonel’s uniform and his
sackful of pewter coins.
On railway trains tickets were a thing of the past to wearers of khaki.
To the border of Lorraine we paid the French military fare; once in
Germany proper, one had only to satisfy the M. P. at the gate to journey
anywhere within the occupied area. At the imposing building out of which
the Germans had been chased to give place to our “Advanced G. H. Q.,” I
found orders to proceed at once to Coblenz, but there was time to
transgress military rules to the extent of bringing _Grossmutter_ a loaf
of white bread and a can of condensed milk from our commissary, to
repair my damage to the family larder, before hurrying to the station.
Yank guardsmen now sustained the contentions of the _Verboten_ signs,
instead of letting them waste away in impotence, as at Metz. A boy
marched up and down the platform, pushing a convenient little news-stand
on wheels, and offering for sale all the important Paris papers, as well
as German ones. The car I entered was reserved for Allied officers, yet
several Boche civilians rode in it unmolested. I could not but wonder
what would have happened had conditions been reversed. They were
cheerful enough in spite of what ought to have been a humiliating state
of affairs, possibly because of an impression I heard one hoarsely
whisper to another, “Oh, they’ll go home in another six months; an
American officer told me so.” Evidently some one had been
“fraternizing,” as well as receiving information which the heads of the
Peace Conference had not yet gained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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