Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Barefoot boys were selling huge slabs of bread and generous lengths of
sausage through the car windows. All things are relative, and to the
travelers from Germany these “ticket-free” viands of doubtful origin
seemed a kingly repast. With every mile forward now it was easier to
understand why the loss of the province of Posen had been so serious a
blow to the hungry Empire. Here were no arid, sandy stretches, but an
endless expanse of rich black loam, capable of feeding many times its
rather sparse population. If it had been “pumped dry” by the former
oppressors, it was already well on the road to recovery. Wheat, corn,
and potatoes covered the flat plains to the horizons on either hand.
Cattle and sheep were by no means rare; pigs, goats, ducks, and chickens
flocked about every village and farm-house, evidently living in
democratic equality with the human inhabitants. There were other
suggestions that we were approaching the easy-going East. Men in high
Russian boots sauntered behind their draft animals with the
leisureliness of those who know the world was not built in a day, nor
yet in a year. Churches of Oriental aspect, with steep roofs that were
still not Gothic, broke the sameness of the prevailing German
architecture. There was something softly un-Occidental in the atmosphere
of the great city into which we rumbled at sunset, a city which huge new
sign-boards on the station platform stridently announced was no longer
Posen, but “Poznan.”
XI
AN AMPUTATED MEMBER
(_Posen under the Poles_)
The same spirit that had led the Poles to impress so forcibly upon the
traveler the fact that the city in which he had just arrived was now
called Poznan (pronounced Poznánya) had manifested itself in a thousand
other changes. In so far as time had permitted, every official signboard
had already been rendered into Polish and the detested German ones cast
into outer darkness. Only those familiar with the Slavic tongue of the
new rulers could have guessed what all those glitteringly new enameled
placards that adorned the still Boche-featured station were commanding
them to do or not to do. Every street in town had been baptized into the
new faith and gaily boasted that fact on every corner. For a time the
names had been announced in both languages, as in Metz; but a month or
so before my arrival the radicals had prevailed and the older placards
had been abolished. True, in most cases the new ones were merely
translations of the old. But what did it help the German resident who
had neglected to learn Polish to know that the “Alte Markt” was still
the “Old Market” so long as he could not recognize it under the new
designation of “Stary Rynek”? Imagine, if you can, the sensation of
waking up some morning to find that Main Street has become Ulica Glòwna,
or to discover that the street-car you had always taken no longer runs
to Forest Park but to Ogrott Lass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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