Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Nothing but the few things that defied quick change, such as post-boxes
or names deeply cut into stone façades, had escaped the all-embracing
renovation. Indeed, many of these had been deliberately defaced. The
cast-iron “Haltestelle der Strassenbahn” high up on the trolley-supports
had been daubed with red paint, though they were still recognizable to
motormen and would-be passengers. Many business houses had followed the
official lead, and private signs were more apt than not to have the
German words that had once called attention to the excellence of the
wares within crudely effaced or changed to the new tongue. Sometimes it
was not merely the language that had been altered, but the whole tenor
of the proprietor’s allegiance. A popular underground beer-hall in the
heart of town was no longer the “Bismarck Tunnel,” but the “Tunel
Wilsona.” German trucks thundering by on their iron tires bore the white
eagle of Poland instead of the black Prussian bird of prey. German
newspapers were still published, but as the streets they mentioned were
nowhere to be found in all Poznan, their advertisements and much of
their news were rather pointless. It gave me a curiously helpless
feeling to find myself for the first time in years unable to guess a
word of the language about me. Fortunately all Poznan still spoke
German. Only once during my stay there did I find myself hampered by my
ignorance of Polish—when a theater-ticket office proved to be in charge
of a pair recently arrived from Warsaw. On more than one occasion my
advances were received coldly, sometimes with scowls. But a reply was
always forthcoming, and whenever I announced myself an American, who
spoke the less welcome of the two tongues by necessity rather than by
choice, apology and friendly overtures immediately followed.
Having effaced the lingual reminders of their late oppressors, the
Poznanians had proceeded to pay their respects to the bronze heroes they
had left behind. The Germans, as is their custom, had littered the
public squares with statues of their chief sword-brandishers, in
gigantic size—tender reminders to the conquered people of the blessings
that had been forced upon them. The downfall of these had been sudden
and unceremonious. Some had descended so hastily that the allegorical
figures at their feet had suffered the fate so often overtaking faithful
henchmen of the fallen mighty. The stone image of an old woman
representing “Sorrow” looked doubly sorrowful with broken nose, legs,
and fingers. Kaiser Friedrich, Doctor Bismarck with his panacea of
“blood and iron,” the world-famed Wilhelm, had all left behind them
imposing pedestals, like university chairs awaiting exponents of newer
and more lasting doctrines. Here and there a statue had remained,
because it was Polish, but these were few and small and tucked away into
the more obscure corners.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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