Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The “Residence City” of Coblenz, headquarters of the American Army of
Occupation, is one of the finest on the Rhine. Wealth has long
gravitated toward the triangle of land at its junction with the Moselle.
The owners—or recent owners—of mines in Lorraine make their homes there.
The mother of the late unlamented Kaiser was fond of the place and saw
to it that no factory chimneys came to sully its skies with their smoke,
or its streets and her tender heart-strings with the wan and sooty serfs
of industrial progress. The British at Cologne had more imposing
quarters; the French at Mayence, and particularly at Wiesbaden, enjoyed
more artistic advantages. A few of our virile warriors, still too young
to distinguish real enjoyment from the flesh-pots incident to
metropolitan bustle, were sometimes heard to grumble, “Huh! they gave
_us_ third choice, all right!” But the consensus of opinion among the
Americans was contentment. The sudden change from the mud burrows of the
Argonne, or from the war-worn villages of the Vosges, made it natural
that some should draw invidious comparisons between our long-suffering
ally and the apparently unscathed enemy. Those who saw the bogy of
“propaganda” in every corner accused the Germans of preferring that the
occupied territory be the Rhineland, rather than the interior of
Germany, “because this garden spot would make a better impression on
their enemies, particularly the Americans, so susceptible to creature
comforts.” By inference the Boche might have offered us East Prussia or
Schleswig instead! It was hard to believe, however, that those splendid,
if sometimes top-heavy, residences stretching for miles along the Rhine
were built, twenty to thirty years ago in many cases, with any conscious
purpose of impressing the prospective enemies of the Fatherland.
It was these creature comforts of his new billeting area that made the
American soldier feel so strangely at home on the Rhine. Here his
office, in contrast to the rude stone casernes with their tiny tin
stoves that gave off smoke rather than heat, was cozy, warm, often well
carpeted. His billets scarcely resembled the frigid, medieval ones of
France. Now that no colonel can rank me out of it, I am free to admit
that in all my travels I have never been better housed and servanted
than in Coblenz, nor had a more solicitous host than the staid old judge
who was forced to take me in for a mere pittance—paid in the end by his
own people. The _Regierungsgebäude_—it means nothing more terrifying
than “government building”—which the rulers of the province yielded with
outward good grace to our army staff, need not have blushed to find
itself in Washington society. To be sure, we were able to dispossess the
Germans of their best, whereas the French could only allot us what their
own requirements left; yet there is still a margin in favor of the
Rhineland for material comfort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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