Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
I breakfasted next morning with the German staff. At least I was the
only civilian in the palm-decked dining-room where a score of high
ranking wearers of the iron cross munched their black bread and purple
_Ersatz_ marmalade with punctilious formality. Away from their men, they
seemed to cling as tenaciously to the rules of their caste as if
disaster had never descended upon it. Each officer who entered the room
paused to click his heels twice resoundingly and bow low to his seated
fellows, none of whom gave him the slightest attention. It was as truly
German a gesture as the salute with which every wearer of the horizon
blue enters a public eating-place is French.
Nine o’clock had already sounded when I swung over my back the rucksack
containing my German possessions and struck out toward the north. Now,
if ever, was the time for the iron hand of the enemy to fall upon me.
Perhaps my mere attempt to leave the city on foot would bring me an
adventure. Vain hope! Neither civilians nor the endless procession of
soldiers gave me any more attention than they did the peasants returning
to their rich acres. Two sadly uneventful hours out of town a new
promise appeared in the offing. A soldier under a trench helmet, armed
with a glistening fixed bayonet, was patrolling a crossroad. He stepped
forward as he caught sight of me, grasped his piece in an alert
attitude, stared a moment in my direction, and—turning his back, leaned
against a tree and lighted a cigarette. Evidently I should have to fly
the Stars and Stripes at my masthead if I hoped to attract attention.
Not far beyond stood weather-blackened barracks sufficient to have
housed a regiment. I paused to photograph a company that was falling in.
I marched out in front of the jostling throng and took a “close-up” of
the lieutenant who was dressing it. He smiled faintly and stepped to the
end of the line to run his eye along it. I refrained from carrying out
an impulse to slap him on the back and shout: “Heh, old top! I am an
American, just out of the army! What are you going to do about it?” and
plodded on down the broad highway. How could a city be called
beleaguered and a country under martial law if strangers could wander in
and out of them at will, photographing as they went?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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