Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Fifteen kilometers from the capital I stopped at a crossroads
_Gasthaus_, quite prepared to hear my suggestion of food answered with a
sneer. Two or three youthful ex-soldiers still in uniform sat at one of
the bare wooden tables, sipping the inevitable half-liter mugs of beer.
I ordered one myself, not merely because I was thirsty, but because that
is the invariable introduction to any request in a Bavarian inn. As the
ponderous but neat matron set the foaming glass before me with the
never-lacking “May it taste well!” I opened preliminaries on the food
question, speaking gently, lest so presumptive a request from a total
stranger awaken the wrath of the discharged soldiers. Mine hostess had
no such misgivings. In a voice as loud and penetrating as my own had
been inarticulate she bade me explain my desires in detail. I huskily
whispered eggs, fried eggs, a plebeian dish, perhaps, in the land of my
birth, but certainly a greater height of luxury in Germany than I had
yet attained. I quail still at the audacity of that request, which I
proffered with an elbow on the alert to protect my skull from the reply
by physical force I more than half expected. Instead she made not a
sound, after the manner of Bavarian innkeepesses when taking orders, and
faded heavily but noiselessly away in the direction of the kitchen.
A few minutes later I beheld two _Spiegeleier_ descending upon me, not
merely real eggs, but of that year’s vintage. One of them alone might
have been an astonishment; a whole pair of them trotting side by side as
if the Kaiser had never dreamed how fetching the letters Rex Mundis
would look after his name was all but too much for me. I caught myself
clinging to the bench under me as one might to the seat of an airplane
about to buck, or whatever it is ships of the air do when they feel
skittish. A whole plateful of boiled potatoes bore the regal couple
attendance, and a generous slab of almost edible bread, quite unlike a
city helping both in size and quality, brought up the rear. When I
reached for a fifty-mark note and asked for the reckoning the hostess
went through a laborious process in mental arithmetic and announced
that, including the two half-liters of beer, I was indebted to the
extent of one mk. twenty-seven! In the slang of our school-days, “You
could have knocked me over with a feather,” particularly as four hours
earlier, back in a modest Munich hotel, I had been mulcted twelve marks
for an _Ersatz_ breakfast of “coffee, bread, marmalade,” and four very
thin slices of ham.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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