Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Thus far I had not mentioned my nationality at the inn, being in doubt
whether the result would be to increase our conversational speed or
bring it to a grating and sudden halt. When I did, it was ludicrously
like the shifting of gears. The talk slowed down for a minute or more,
while the information I had vouchsafed passed from table to table in
half-audible whispers, then sped ahead more noisily, if less swiftly,
than before. On the whole, curiosity was chiefly in evidence. There was
perhaps a bit of wonder and certainly some incredulity in the simple,
gaping faces, but quite as surely no signs of enmity or resentment.
Before long the table at which I sat was doubly crowded and questions as
to America and her ways were pouring down upon me in a flood which it
was quite beyond the power of a single voice to stem. Friendly questions
they certainly were, without even a suggestion of the sarcasm one
sometimes caught a hint of in more haughty German circles. Yet in the
gathering were at least a score of men who had been more or less injured
for life in a struggle which they themselves admitted the nation I
represented had turned against them. I have been so long absent from my
native land that I cannot quite picture to myself what would happen to
the man who thus walked in upon a gathering of American farmers, boldly
announcing himself a German just out of the army, but something tells me
he would not have passed so perfectly agreeable an evening as I did in
the village inn of Hohenkammer.
With my third mug of beer the landlord himself sat down beside me. Not,
of course—prohibition forbid!—that I had ordered a third pint of beer in
addition to the two that the plump matron had served me with a very
satisfying supper. In fact, I had not once mentioned the subject of
beverages. Merely to take one’s seat at any inn table in Bavaria is
equivalent to shouting, “_Glas Bier!_” No questions were asked, but mine
host—so far more often mine hostess—is as certain to set a foaming mug
before the new arrival as he—or she—is to abhor the habit of drinking
water; and woe betide the man who drains what he hopes is his last mug
without rising instantly to his feet, for some sharp-eyed member of the
innkeeper’s family circle is sure to thrust another dripping beaker
under his chin before he can catch his breath to protest. On the other
hand, no one is forced to gage his thirst by that of his neighbors, as
in many a less placid land. The treating habit is slightly developed in
rural Bavaria. On very special occasions some one may “set ’em up” for
the friend beside him, or even for three or four of his cronies, but it
is the almost invariable rule that each client call for his own
reckoning at the end of the evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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