Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The innkeeper had returned at late dusk from tilling his fields several
miles away. Like his fellows throughout Bavaria, he was a peasant except
by night and on holidays. During the working-day the burden, if it could
be called one, of his urban establishment fell upon his wife and
children. It was natural, therefore, that the topic with which he wedged
his way into the conversation should have been that of husbandry. Seeds,
he asserted, were still fairly good, fortunately, though in a few
species the war had left them sadly inferior. But the harvest would be
poor this year. The coldest spring in as far back as he could remember
had lasted much later than ever before. Then, instead of the rain they
should have had, scarcely a drop had fallen and things were already
beginning to shrivel. As if they had not troubles enough as it was! With
beer gone up to sixteen pfennigs a pint instead of the ten of the good
old days before the war! And such beer! Hardly 3 per cent. alcohol in it
now instead of 11! The old peasants had stopped drinking it entirely—the
very men who had been his best customers. They distilled a home-made
_Schnapps_ now, and stayed at home to drink it. Naturally such weak
stuff as this—he held up his half-empty mug with an expression of
disgust on his face—could not satisfy the old-fashioned Bavarian taste.
Before the war he had served an average of a thousand beers a day. Now
he drew barely two hundred. And as fast as business fell off taxes
increased. He would give a good deal to know where they were going to
end. Especially now, with these ridiculous terms the Allies were asking
Germany to sign. How could they sign? It would scarcely leave them their
shirt and trousers. And they, the peasants and country people, would
have to pay for it, they and the factory hands; not the bigwigs in
Berlin and Essen who were so ready to accept England’s challenge. No, it
would not pay Bavaria to assert her independence. They did not love the
northern German, but when all was said and done it would be better to
stick with him.
Suddenly the brain-racking dialect in which the _Wirt_ and his cronies
had been sharing their views on this and other subjects halted and died
down to utter silence, with that same curious similarity to a shut-off
motor that my entrance had caused. I looked about me, wondering what I
had done to bring on this new stillness. Every man in the room had
removed his hat and all but two their porcelain pipes. Except for the
latter, who puffed faintly and noiselessly now and then, the whole
assembly sat perfectly motionless. For a moment or more I was puzzled;
then a light suddenly broke upon me. The bell of the village church was
tolling the end of evening vespers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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