Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
I set my pace in a way to bring me into the larger towns at noon and to
some quaint and quiet village at nightfall. In the latter, one was surer
to find homelike accommodations and simpler, more naïve people with whom
to chat through the evening. The cities, even of only a few thousand
inhabitants, too nearly resembled Berlin or Munich to prove of continued
interest. The constant traveler, too, comes to abhor the world-wide
sameness of city hotels. Moreover, the larger the town the scantier was
the food in the Germany of 1919. The guest who sat down to an
excellently cooked dinner of a thick peasant soup, a man’s size portion
of beef, veal, or pork, potatoes in unlimited quantity, bread that was
almost white and made of real wheat, and a few other vegetables thrown
in, all for a cost of two marks, might easily have imagined that all
this talk of food shortage was mere pretense. Surely this last month
before the beginning of harvest, in the last year of the war, with the
question of signing or not signing the peace terms throbbing through all
Germany, was the time of all times to find a certain answer to the query
of the outside world as to the truth of the German’s cry of starvation.
But the answer one found in the smaller villages of Bavaria would have
been far from the true one of the nation at large.
Now and then my plans went wrong. Conditions differed, even in two towns
of almost identical appearance. Thus at Ingolstadt, which was large
enough to have been gaunt with hunger, there was every evidence of
plenty. Here I had expected trouble also of another sort. The town was
heavily garrisoned, as it had been even before the war. Soldiers swarmed
everywhere; at the inn where my tramping appetite was so amply satisfied
they surrounded me on every side. I was fully prepared to be halted at
any moment, perhaps to be placed under arrest. Instead, the more openly
I watched military maneuvers, the more boldly I put questions to the
youths in uniform, the less I was suspected. In Reichertshofen the night
before, where I had sat some time in silence, reading, in a
smoke-clouded beer-hall crowded with laborers from the local mills, far
more questioning glances had been cast in my direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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