Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
As always happens in such cases, the next town was at least twice as far
away as the average distance between its neighbors. Fortunately an
isolated little “beer-arbor” a few miles farther on had laid in a
Saturday stock. The _Wirt_ not only served me bread, but a generous cut
of some mysterious species of sausage, without so much as batting an
eyelid at my presumptuous request. Weary, dusty “hamsterers” of both
sexes and all ages were enjoying his Spartan hospitality also, their
scanty fare contrasting suggestively with the great slabs of home-smoked
cold ham, the hard-boiled eggs, _Bauernbrod_ and butter with which a
group of plump, taciturn peasant youths and girls gorged themselves at
another mug-decorated table with the surreptitious demeanor of yeggmen
enjoying their ill-gotten winnings. The stragglers of the human weasel
army punctuated the highway for a few kilometers farther. Some were war
victims, stumping past on crippled legs; some were so gaunt-featured and
thin that one wondered how they had succeeded in entering the race at
all. The last one of the day was a woman past middle age, mountainous of
form, her broad expanse of ruddy face streaked with dust and
perspiration, who sat weightily on a roadside boulder, munching the
remnants of a black-bread-and-smoked-pork lunch and gazing despairingly
into the highway vista down which her more nimble-legged competitors had
long since vanished.
In the end I was glad Mühlhausen had repulsed me, for I had a most
delightful walk from sunset into dusk in forest-flanked solitude along
the Ludwig Canal, with a swim in reflected moonshine to top it off.
Darkness had completely fallen on the long summer day when I reached
Neumarkt with thirty miles behind me. Under ordinary circumstances I
should have had a large choice of lodgings; the place was important
enough to call itself a city and its broad main street was lined by a
continuous procession of peak-gabled _Gasthäuser_. But it, too, was
flooded with “hamsterers.” They packed every beer-dispensing
“guest-room”; they crowded every public lodging, awaiting the dawn of
Sunday to charge forth in all directions upon the surrounding
country-side. I made the circuit of its cobble-paved center four times,
suffering a score of scornful rebuffs before I found a man who admitted
vaguely that he might be able to shelter me for the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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