Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
He was another of those curious fairy-tale dwarfs one finds tucked away
in the corners of Bavaria, and his eyrie befitted his personal
appearance. It was a disjointed little den filled with the medieval
paraphernalia—and incidentally with much of the unsavoriness—that had
collected there during its several centuries of existence. One stooped
to enter the beer-hall, and rubbed one’s eyes for the astonishment of
being suddenly carried back to the Middle Ages—as well as from the acrid
clouds of smoke that suddenly assailed them; one all but crawled on
hands and knees to reach the stoop-shouldered, dark cubbyholes miscalled
sleeping-chambers above. Indeed, the establishment did not presume to
pose as a _Gasthaus_; it contented itself with the more modest title of
_Gastwirtschaft_.
But there were more than mere physical difficulties in gaining
admittance to the so-called lodgings under the eaves. The dwarfish
_Wirt_ had first to be satisfied that I was a paying guest. When I asked
to be shown at once to my quarters, he gasped, protestingly, “_Aber
trinken Sie kein Glas Bier!_” I would indeed, and with it I would eat a
substantial supper, if he could furnish one. That he could, and did. How
he had gathered so many of the foodstuffs which most Germans strive for
in vain, including such delicacies as eggs, veal, and butter, is no
business of mine. My chief interest just then was to welcome the heaping
plates which his gnomish urchins brought me from the cavernous hole of a
kitchen out of which peered now and then the witchlike face of his
wife-cook. The same impish little brats pattered about in their bare
feet among the guests, serving them beer as often as a mug was emptied
and listening with grinning faces to the sometimes obscene anecdotes
with which a few of them assailed the rafters. Most of the clients that
evening were of the respectable class, being “hamstering” men and wives
forced to put up with whatever circumstances required of them, but they
were in striking contrast to the disreputable _habitués_ of what was
evidently Neumarkt’s least gentlemanly establishment.
In all the wine-soaked uproar of the evening there was but a single
reference to what one fancied would have been any German’s chief
interest in those particular days. A maudlin braggart made a casual,
parenthetical boast of what he “would do to the cursed Allies if he ever
caught them again.” The habitual guests applauded drunkenly, the
transient ones preserved the same enduring silence they had displayed
all the evening, the braggart lurched on along some wholly irrelevant
theme, and the misshapen host continued serving his beer and pocketing
pewter coins and “shin-plasters” with a mumble and a grimace that said
as plainly as words, “Vell, vhat do I care vhat happens to the country
if I can still do a paying pusiness?” But then, he was of the race that
has often been accused of having no patriotism for anything beyond its
own purse, whatever country it inhabits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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