Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
automatically forced private timepieces to be advanced also. My host
declined for a day or two to conform, but he had only to miss one train
to be cured of his obstinacy. Coblenz was awakened by the insistent
notes of the American reveille; it was reminded of bedtime by that most
impressive of cradle-songs, the American taps, the solemn, reposeful
notes of which floated out across the Rhine like an invitation to wilful
humanity to lay away its disputes as it had its labors of the day.
In the main, for all the occupation, civilian life proceeded normally.
Trains ran on time; cinemas and music-halls perpetrated their customary
piffle on crowded and uproarious houses; bare-kneed football games
occupied the leisure hours of German youths; newspapers appeared as
usual, subject only to the warning to steer clear of a few specified
subjects; cafés were filled at the popular hours in spite of the
restrictions on consumption and the tendency of their orchestras to
degenerate into ragtime. Would military occupation be anything like this
in, say, Delaware? We often caught ourselves asking the question, and
striving to visualize our own land under a reversal of conditions. But
the imagination never carried us very far in that direction; at least
those of us who had left it in the early days of the war were unable to
picture our native heath under any such régime.
Though we appropriated their best to our own purposes, the Germans will
find it hard to allege any such wanton treatment of their property,
their homes, their castles, and their government buildings, as their own
hordes so often committed in France and Belgium. Our officers and men,
with rare exceptions, gave the habitations that had temporarily become
theirs by right of conquest a care which they would scarcely have
bestowed upon their own. The ballroom floor of Coblenz’s most princely
club was solicitously covered with canvas to protect it from officers’
hob-nails. Castle Stolzenfels, a favorite place of doughboy pilgrimage a
bit farther up the Rhine, was supplied with felt slippers for heavily
shod visitors. The Baedekers of the future will no doubt call the
tourist’s attention to the fact that such a _Schloss_, that this
governor’s palace and that colonel’s residence, were once occupied by
American soldiers, but there will be small chance to insinuate, as they
have against the French of 1689 into the description of half the
monuments on the Rhine, the charge “destroyed by the Americans in 1919.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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