Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The most pompous of _nouveaux riches_ could not have shown more evidence
of self-worship in their decorations. Immense paintings of themselves
and of their ancestors covered half the Hohenzollern walls, showing them
in heroic attitudes and gigantic size, alone with the world at their
feet, or in the very thick of battles, looking calm, collected, and
unafraid amid generals and followers who, from Bismarck down, had an air
of fear which the royal central figure discountenanced by contrast. Huge
portraits of princes, _Kurfürsten_, emperors, a goodly percentage of
them looking not quite intelligent enough to make efficient
night-watchmen, stared haughtily from all sides. A picture of the old
Hohenzollern castle, from which the family—and many of the world’s
woes—originally sprang, occupied a prominent place, as an American
“Napoleon of finance” might hang in his Riverside drawing-room a
painting of the old farm from which he set out to conquer the earth.
Much alleged art by members of the royal family, as fondly preserved as
Lizzy’s first—and last—school drawing, stood on easels or tables in
prominent, insistent positions. Presents from the Sultan were
particularly numerous, among them massive metal tablets with bits in
Arabic from the Koran. One of these read, according to the caretaker,
“He who talks least says most.” Unfortunately, the Kaiser could not read
Arabic, hence the particularly pertinent remark was lost upon him. In an
obscure corner hung one of the inevitable German cuckoo clocks, placed
there, if my guide was not mistaken, by a former empress in memory of
the spot where she plighted her troth. Poor, petty little romances of
royalty! Probably it was not so much coquetry as an effort to escape the
pseudo-magnificence of those appalling rooms that drove her into the
corner. How could any one be comfortable, either in mind or in body,
with such junk about them, much less pass the romantic hours of life in
their midst? I should much have preferred to have my _Verlobungskuss_ in
a railway station.
Only the library of the ex-empress, with its German, French, and English
novels and its works of piety, showed any sign of real human
individuality. Her favorite picture hung there—a painting showing a
half-starved woman weeping and praying over an emaciated child, called
“The Efficacy of Prayer.” No doubt the dear empress got much sentimental
solace out of it—just before the royal dinner was announced. The
Kaiser’s private sleeping-room, on the other hand, was simplicity
itself—far less sumptuous than my own a few blocks away. He had last
slept there, said the caretaker, in the autumn of 1914, while moving
toward the western front with his staff.
“And all this belongs to the state now, since Germany has become a
republic?” I remarked.
“Only a part of it,” replied my guide. “We are making up lists of the
private and crown property, and his own possessions will be returned to
the Kaiser.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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