Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The little _Stadttheater_ gave the principal operas, not merely of
Germany, but of France and Italy, and occasional plays, chiefly from
their own classics. They were usually well staged, though long drawn
out, after the manner of the German, who can seldom say his say in a few
succinct words and be done as can the Frenchman. The operas, too, had a
heaviness in spots—such as those, for instance, under the feet of the
diaphanous nymphs of one hundred and sixty-five pounds each who cavorted
about the trembling stage—which did not exactly recall the Opéra in
Paris. But it would be unfair to compare the artistic advantages of a
city of eighty thousand with those of the “capital of the world.”
Probably the performances in Coblenz would have rivaled those in any but
the two or three largest French cities, and it would be a remarkable
town “back in little old U. S. A.” that could boast such a theater,
offering the best things of the stage at prices quite within reach of
ordinary people. When one stopped to reflect, those prices were
astonishing. The best seat in the _Kronloge_ was but 5 mk. 50, a bare
half-dollar then, only $1.25 at the normal pre-war exchange, and
accommodations graded down to quite tolerable places in whatever the
Germans call their “peanut gallery” at nine cents! All of which does not
mean that the critical opera-goer would not gladly endure the quintupled
cost for the privilege of attending a performance at the Opéra Comique
at Paris.
The question of fraternization and the ubiquitous one of German food
shortage were not without their connection. Intelligence officers were
constantly running down rumors of too much sympathy of our soldiers for
the hungry population. The assertion that Germany had been “starved to
her knees,” however, was scarcely borne out by observations in the
occupied area. It is true that in Coblenz even the authorized
quantities—seven pounds of potatoes, two hundred grams of meat, seven
ounces of sugar, and so on per person each week, were high in price and
not always available. Milk for invalids and those under seven was easier
to order than to obtain. A notice in the local papers to “Bring your egg
and butter tickets on Monday and get two cold-storage eggs and forty
grams of oleomargarine” was cause for town-wide rejoicing. Poor old
horses that had faithfully served the A. E. F. to the end of their
strength were easily auctioned at prices averaging a thousand marks
each, in spite of the requirement that a certificate be produced within
a week showing where they had been slaughtered. There was always a
certain _Schleichhandel_, or underhand dealing, going on between the
wealthy in the cities and the well-stocked peasants. Rancid butter, to
be had of excellent quality before the war at two marks, cost in
“underground” commerce anything from fifty marks up which the happy man
who found it was in a condition to pay. Contrasted with this picture,
the wages of an eight-hour day were seldom over five marks for
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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