Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
placidly unmoved, like dictators shorn of power by some force too high
above to make any show of feelings worth while.
The French had already come to Metz. One recognized that at once in the
endless queues that formed at every window. One was doubly sure of it at
sight of a temperament-harassed official in horizon blue floundering in
a tempest of _paperasses_, a whirlwind of papers, ink, and unfulfilled
intentions, behind the wicket, earnestly bent on quickly doing his best,
yet somehow making nine motions where one would have sufficed. But most
of the queues melted away more rapidly than was the Parisian custom; and
as we moved nearer, to consign our baggage or to buy our tickets, we
noted that the quickened progress was due to a slow but methodically
moving German male, still in his field gray. He had come to the
meeting-place of temperament and _Ordnung_, or system. Both have their
value, but there are times and places for both.
Among the bright hopes that had gleamed before me since turning my face
toward the fallen enemy was a hot bath. To attain so unwonted a luxury
in France was, in the words of its inhabitants, “_toute une
histoire_”—in fact, an all but endless story. In the first place, the
extraordinary desire must await a Saturday. In the second, the heater
must not have fallen out of practice during its week of disuse. Thirdly,
one must make sure that no other guest on the same floor had laid the
same soapy plans within an hour of one’s own chosen time. Fourthly, one
must have put up at a hotel that boasted a bathtub, in itself no simple
feat for those forced to live on their own honest earnings. Fifthly—but
life is too short and paper too expensive to enumerate all the
incidental details that must be brought together in harmonious
concordance before one actually and physically got a real hot bath in
France, after her four years and more of struggle to ward off the Hun.
But in Germany—or was it only subtle propaganda again, the persistent
rumor that hot baths were of daily occurrence and within reach of the
popular purse? At any rate, I took stock enough in it to let
anticipation play on the treat in store, once I were settled in Germany.
Then all at once my eyes were caught by two magic words above an arrow
pointing down the station corridor. Incredible! Some one had had the
bright idea of providing a means, right here in the station, of removing
the grime of travel at once.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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