Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African SpainCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African Spain
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Murcia (Spain) -- Description and travel; Valencia (Spain) -- Description and travel
The plan of the Cathedral, like most Spanish churches, is cruciform. In
1760 the interior was modernised in a manner that makes the
beauty-loving traveller long to tear his hair--or that of the
perpetrator of the “restoration.” Over-decoration is its chief defect.
The walls have been encrusted with marbles, the Gothic columns almost
concealed by Corinthian pilasters, the pointed arches rounded off. The
church may merit its surname of “La Rica,” but it has lost that
atmosphere of remote beauty that calls forth the instincts of religion
in the worshipper. During the French occupation of 1809 the magnificent
silver altar was melted down, but fortunately its protecting door panels
were uninjured. These are painted with six pictures by Francisco Pagano
and Pablo de San Leocadio, disciples of Leonardo da Vinci, and ascribed
by some to the master himself. The spurs and bridle of Jaime el
Conqueridor, presented by him on the day he took the city to his Master
of the Horse, are preserved on one of the pillars on the Gospel side.
The choir is for the most part modern, with plain and classical walnut
stalls. The rear portion, or _trascoro_, dates from the fifteenth
century, and is decorated with a fine series of Biblical scenes in
alabaster. The chapels have little of interest, except the tomb of Tomás
de Villanueva, the holy Archbishop of Valencia, in the one dedicated to
him. Over the crossing rises the fine octagonal lantern, which was built
in 1404 and restored in 1731. It was once adorned by many trophies,
among them the flags taken from the Genoese by Ramon Corveran, a famous
sea-dog of Valencia. These, however, have long since vanished.
After the Cathedral the Lonja de la Seda, or Silk Exchange, is the most
interesting sight of Valencia. Built in the Gothic style (though not of
the purest) it is one of the best specimens of civil architecture of the
Middle Ages that we have remaining. Its square tower, crenellated
chimneys, open galleries and high windows give an extremely fine effect.
The hall has spirally fluted pillars that branch out into graceful
clusters of palm-leaves. The ceiling is painted with stars and round the
walls runs the legend, “He only that shall not have deceived nor done
usury shall be worthy of eternal life,” which (let us hope) has guided
generations of merchants into the paths of commercial integrity. The
Audiencia, in good Renaissance style, is well worth a visit, where in
the Salon de Cortes the old provincial States assembled till the middle
of the eighteenth century. As a building the University is beautiful,
if it is a little backward in thought. Here Fernando VII. raised the
noble sport of _Tauromachy_, or Bull-fighting, to the dignity of a
Faculty!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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