Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of FranceEdwards, George Wharton
History
Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of France
Edwards, George Wharton
Cathedrals -- France; Cities and towns -- France; France -- Description and travel
Just what remains at this time of Senlis cannot be ascertained, but all
accounts agree that the huge gray Romanesque tower can no longer be seen
upon the horizon, and that the bombardment of the ruins continues. Baron
André de Maricourt has written a most complete monograph of Senlis.
(Senlis. Baron André de Maricourt, ancien élève de l'école des Chartes.
"Les Cités Meurtries." Paris. Librarie de l'Eclair.)
"Hidden away among the heavy trees which surround it upon all sides,
lies the little town of Senlis, almost a suburb of Paris." According
to the old proverb, "To live happily is to remain hidden." So Senlis
remained comparatively forgotten. The very names of its streets were
strange to modern ears and evoked smiles from the stranger, and its
old houses, dating from the days of "la reine Berthe," enchanted the
antiquary.
This little town of seven thousand inhabitants was indeed one of the
capitals of ancient France during the times of the Capets, and in
the royal château which sheltered the chiefs of the Merovingians, and
royalties down to the days of Henry IV, were written many pages of
the history of France. One recalls the days of Charles le Chauve, of
d'Hugues Capet and St. Louis, the quarrel of the Armagnaces and the
Bourguignons, recalled by the strange picture by Melingue, "Les Otages
de Senlis," which was in the Hôtel de Ville up to the time of the
bombardment by the Germans. Also may be recalled the passage of Jeanne
d'Arc through the town, and then the wars of the "Ligue,"--all proving
the importance of Senlis of the past.
In the eighteenth century, Louis XV, in order to render the town
more accessible, constructed a fine roadway from Paris to the royal
residence, and Senlis emerged from its quietude, amazed at the lines
of gilded equipages and the prancing horses urged on the gallop by
gorgeously dressed lackeys which daily thronged the way.
Cathedral: Senlis
[Illustration: 0279]
This roadway, called formerly the "Rue Neuve de Paris," was the
principal artery of the little old city, under the twenty-year-old name
of "Rue de la République."
Sung by poets, such as Gérard de Nerval, and Maurice Barrés, M. André
Haileys described Senlis as "tortueuse, taciturne et charmante," and
dwelt lovingly upon its "mossy terraces," its ancient walls bathed in
sunlight, and its grand old tower whose perfect bells sounded over the
golden green fields.
In the early summer days of 1914, the Society of Amateurs held their
celebration at Senlis, says Baron de Maricourt, "a few months ago,
months which seem years now. The ceremony was to celebrate the Victory
of Bouvignes. In the St. Rieul Hall, Madame la duchesse de Vendôme sat
beside M. Odent, the mayor of the town, who spoke feelingly of ancient
France, and of Flanders....
"One month later the Hall was occupied by cavalry; our own cavalry of
France.... On the horizon lay the German army....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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