American essays -- 19th century; Literature -- History and criticism
The afternoon is drawing to a close by the time we are settled in our
rooms, have had a cup of tea, and have washed away some of the dirt of
travel. There is only light enough left for a short stroll; and this
first walk through a strange city is one of my principal pleasures
in traveling. I love to find myself amid the unfamiliar streets; to
slip into quiet churches; to stare in shop-windows; to wander, with no
other clue than Baedeker, through narrow byways, and stumble unaware
upon some open court, with its fine old fountain splashing lazily over
the worn stones. Filled with these agreeable anticipations, we steal
downstairs, and see our guide standing like a sentinel at the door. He
is prepared to accompany us, but we decline his services, explaining
curtly that we are only going out for a walk, and need no protection
whatever. It sounds decisive--to us--and we congratulate one another
upon such well-timed firmness, until, glancing back, we perceive our
determined guardian following us on the other side of the street. Now,
as long as we keep straight ahead, pretending to know our way, we are
safe; but the trouble is we don’t know our way, and in a few minutes
it is necessary to consult Baedeker and find out where we are. We do
this as furtively as possible, gathering around the book to hide it,
and moving slowly on while we read. But such foolish precautions are in
vain. The guide has seen us pause. He knows that we are astray, that we
are trying to right ourselves,--a thing he never permits,--and he is
by our side in an instant. If the ladies desire to see the cathedral,
they must turn to the left. It is very near,--not more than a few
minutes’ walk,--and it is open until six o’clock. We think of saying
that we don’t want to see the cathedral, and of turning to the right;
but this course appears rather too perilous. The fact is, we do want
to see it very much; and we should like, moreover, to see it without
delay, and alone. So we thank Brocconi,--that is the guide’s name,--and
say we can find our way now without any trouble. And so we could, if
we were left to ourselves; but the knowledge that we are still being
pursued at a respectful distance, and that we dare not pause a moment
for consideration, flusters us sadly. We come to a point where two
streets meet at an acute angle, hesitate, plunge down the nearer, and
hear Brocconi’s warning voice once more at our elbows. The ladies have
taken a wrong turning. With their permission, he will point them out
the road. So we surrender at discretion, feeling all further resistance
to be useless, and are conducted to the cathedral in a pitiable state
of subjection; are marched dolorously around; are shown old tombs, and
faded pictures, and beautiful bits of mosaic; and then are led back to
the hotel, and dismissed with the assurance that we will be waited on
early the next morning, and that a carriage will be ready for us by ten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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