Vegetable Dyes: Being a Book of Recipes and Other Information Useful to the DyerMairet, Ethel
Science
Vegetable Dyes: Being a Book of Recipes and Other Information Useful to the Dyer
Mairet, Ethel
Dye plants; Dyes and dyeing
_Hogs and Tegs_: the first shearing of sheep that have not been shorn
as lambs.
_Wethers_: all clips succeeding the first shearing.
Wool comes into the market in the following condition. 1. _In the
grease_, not having been washed and containing all the impurities. 2.
_Washed_, with some of the grease removed and fairly clean. 3.
_Scoured_, thoroughly cleaned and all grease removed.
Wool can be dyed either in the fleece, in the yarn, or in the woven
cloth. Raw wool always contains a certain amount of natural grease.
This should not be washed out until it is ready for dyeing, as the
grease keeps the moth out to a considerable extent. Hand spun wool is
generally spun in the oil to facilitate spinning. All grease and oil
must be scoured out before dyeing is begun, and this must be done very
thoroughly or the wool will not take the colour.
WATER
A constant supply of clean soft water is an absolute necessity for the
dyer. Rain water should be collected as much as possible, as this is
the best water to use. The dye house should be by a river or stream,
so that the dyer can wash with a continuous supply. Spring and well
water is, as a rule, hard, and should be avoided. In washing, as well
as in dyeing, hard water is injurious for wool. It ruins the
brilliancy of the colour, and prevents the dyeing of some colours.
Temporary hardness can be overcome by boiling the water (20 to 30
minutes) before using. An old method of purifying water, which is
still used by some silk and wool scourers, is to boil the water with a
little soap, skimming off the surface as it boils. In many cases it is
sufficient to add a little acetic acid to the water.
TO WASH WOOL
In a bath containing 10 gallons of warm water add 4 fluid ounces of
ammonia fort, .880, 1 lb. soda, and 2 oz. soft soap, (potash soap).
Stir well until all is dissolved. Dip the wool in and leave for 2
minutes, then squeeze gently and wash in warm water until quite clear.
_Or_ to 10 gallons of water add 6 oz. ammonia and 3 oz. soft soap. The
water should never be above 140 deg.F. and all the washing water should
be of about the same temperature.
Fleece may be washed in the same way, but great care should be taken
not to felt the wool--the less squeezing the better.
There are four principal methods of dyeing wool.
1st.--The wool is boiled first with the mordant and then in a fresh
bath with the dye.
2nd.--The wool is boiled first with the dye, and when it has absorbed
as much of the colour as possible the mordant is added to the same
bath, thus fixing the colour.
A separate bath can be used for each of these processes, in which case
each bath can be replenished and used again for a fresh lot of wool.
3rd.--The wool is boiled with the mordant and dye in the same bath
together. The colour, as a rule, is not so fast and good as with a
separate bath, though with some dyes a brighter colour is obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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