The other main export route from the capital of Táchira passes through
the small towns of Lobatera and Colón to Uracá, the terminus of the
Táchira Railway leading to Encontrados in Zulia. Lobatera itself is
something over 3,000 feet above the sea, on the Maracaibo side of the
watershed, up to which the white road zigzags behind the town. Its
productions are said to have decreased of late years, but I have pleasant
recollections of the agreeable impression produced by these clean and
apparently prosperous towns of Táchira, on first arriving there from
the lowlands of Zulia, with their miserable huts and muddy, insanitary
villages. People, housing, and food alike seemed vastly improved. Colón
is the half-way house for arrivals from Uracá, and as a result has
several _hoteles_. It is a neat, well-built little town, the surrounding
hills and plateaux being chiefly devoted to stock-farming. Some ten miles
to the north is the railway terminus in the small town of Uracá, on the
edge of the hot lands and very damp in consequence, the mists banking
up in the narrow valley nightly; coffee and cocoa seem to be the chief
products of the neighbourhood.
Both the Encontrados road and that to Mérida pass through the little town
of Táriba, about three miles east of San Cristobal, on the north bank of
the Torbes. There are no bridges here over the stream, and as a result in
time of floods would-be travellers are penned up in San Cristobal, for
on both roads one must ford the stream below the town, and on the way
to Mérida, a second ford is necessary immediately above; at the latter
there is a foot bridge, and when the Torbes is in flood the mules are
fairly hauled across the stream on a rope; the strong currents would
otherwise carry them down over the rocks. It is interesting to watch and
follow a man who knows these fords as he pricks his way along through the
shallows, but they are a great hindrance to traffic.
Up the Torbes Valley and across the páramo of El Zumbador (8,000 feet),
a day’s ride brings one to La Grita (I shall have to refer to páramos
again later on). Near the watershed a road branches off to the east to
Pregonero, capital of the Uribante district, in a valley whose products
range from potatoes and wheat at the top to coffee and sugar at the
bottom; out on the plains, too, there are big cattle-ranches whence comes
much of the meat consumed in the Andine towns. The district needs roads
for its development, and at present is rather an isolated, unvisited
region.
Vargas or El Cobre is a pleasant little village on the northern or
western side of the pass, and its alternative name is said to refer to
mines of copper in the hills near by worked by the Spaniards, who made
the bells of the little church from the metal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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