Most of the trade of this part of the country is carried by schooners,
which come from the sea up the Caño San Juan, to the point where the
Rivers San Juan and Guarapiche join. Here there is an old guardship,
where some Customs officials are stationed. The San Juan leads to
Guanoco, where the Bermudez Asphalt Company carry on their business. A
few miles up the Guarapiche stands the village of Caño Colorado, the
headquarters of the Customs. The jungle is dense on both banks of the
river, but on one side a narrow clearing has been made, just sufficient
for a row of small houses, with a little back garden to each. Maturín
is about thirty miles from here across country, but much farther by
river. From the point at which the schooners stop the trade with Maturín
is carried in bongos, which are propelled, like punts, by long poles.
Planks are fixed on the two sides of the boats, and the crews, standing
on these, plant their poles firmly, and then walk towards the stern. When
they can go no farther, they pull out the poles and run towards the bows.
The river is narrow and very swift, so that coming down stream is very
easy, but going up so much way is lost between the strokes, that the men,
when they pull up their poles, have to rush forward again as fast as they
can. It takes three days to get from Caño Colorado up to Maturín like
this, and the men are able to work almost continually during the day.
Once out of sight of the houses, they generally strip completely, only
throwing on some light covering on reaching one of the few settlements
on the river. The exercise develops every muscle of the body and limbs,
and the men engaged in it are as fine a set of athletes as any artist or
anatomist could wish to see. Although the river is so wild, and human
habitations so few and far apart, this scene is quite lively at intervals
as groups of these bongos come along, and “man overboard,” a frequent
event, is always the cause of much merriment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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