Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
One can wander for miles along the Lido on the Adriatic side. The
lizards bask in the hot sand; the delicate, pale sea-holly mingles
with the yellow of the evening primrose. From the Lido you can see
right away to the south-east, and in the horizon can discern the faint
blue hills above Trieste and the top of Monte Maggiore. From there the
city looks well: one sees the Ducal Palace, faintly pink, the green
woods of the public gardens, and the vast blue Venetian sky. The true
native seems to have a strange affection for the Lido. One cannot tell
why or wherefore; but it is so--"Lido" has ever been a name to conjure
with. One cannot tell what associations and sensations of pleasure and
charm are connected with it. At the present day it is a flat piece of
somewhat marshy ground, with large gardens intersected by canals.
The woods of the Favorita, on the shore of San Elizabetta, are
delightful, with their groves of acacia and catalpas, where the ground
is carpeted with wild flowers, and the grass is greener than elsewhere
in Venice, and the nodding violets grow. Behind the acacia grove
there is a Protestant burial-ground where rest the bones of many
Englishmen who came to Venice for pleasure and stayed to die. The tomb
of our ambassador, Sir Francis Vincent, is here. A beautiful walk is
towards the ramparts of San Nicolo, where the blackbirds sing in the
old convent garden, and in summer crimson poppies, purple salvias, and
vivid green grass are luxuriant. San Nicolo di Bari is the patron
saint of sailors. They have erected a magnificent church dedicated to
his memory on the most beautiful point of the Lido. Here the crews of
the merchantmen and warships of the Republic would linger for a while
before sailing, to ask a blessing on their voyage. The saint's remains
do not really rest here. Venice failed in her endeavour to obtain them
by force from the people of Bari; but she spread the fiction among the
people. To this day the sailors of the lagoon firmly believe that San
Nicolo still watches over and protects them, and when in doubt or
danger are enabled by the campanile of his church to find the direct
course to the Lido port. At the Lido is the cemetery of the Jews. The
graves are covered with sand and vegetation, and children never
hesitate to dance on them,--in fact, to do so is a favourite pastime.
If one remonstrates, they will look at you with wide-open eyes,
and explain that these are only graves of Jews,--a Jew with the
Venetians being no better than a dog. The grave of a Christian is
treated with the greatest reverence: even the children and the
gondoliers salute it as they pass. There is something pathetic about
the Jewish graves, from the stones over which the inscriptions have
been effaced.
[Illustration: CHIOGGIA]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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