Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
church of Torcello shows force and simplicity of character, and a
certain reverent religious feeling on the part of its founders.
Everything is on a small and humble scale. The columns which support
the roof are no higher than a man. Yet these columns are of pure Greek
marble, and the capitals are enriched with delicate sculpture. One
sees everywhere in this church an earnest and simple desire to do
honour to God in the temple they were erecting, and that it should not
form too great a contrast to the churches they had loved and seen
destroyed. Torcello is equally delightful in springtime and in autumn.
In spring the orchards are in full bloom, and the hedges throw their
pink and white sprays of thorn against the sky. In autumn the water
meadows are a shimmer of purple and red from the masses of feathery
lavender that grow there. It has much the same colour and feeling as a
Scotch moor. Torcello is interesting from its venerable traditions,
its desolation, its wildness, and its profound silence.
There are many expeditions on which one could go if one had the time
to spare. For example, there is an island near Torcello called San
Francisco in Deserto. The name is well applied: St. Francis' island
certainly stands in a desert. There is still an islet monastery of the
Franciscan order. The brethren show you with much enthusiasm a stone
coffin in which the founder of the convent was in the habit of lying
in order to acclimatise himself to the sensation of death. Also there
is pointed out a penitential cell which was once inhabited by the
saint, and a tree (said to have sprung from his staff) which he
planted. This legend may sound mythical; but perhaps it may not
be so. It is quite possible for a staff, even if it has lain by for
some time, to shoot out in several places in green sprigs; and one of
these, cut in proper manner, might easily take root and grow into a
tree. The real charm of the island lies in the garden of the
monastery, where narcissus are abundant and there is a great avenue of
cypresses, the finest in Venice.
[Illustration: IN MURANO]
Triporti is different: in fact, no other island of the lagoon is quite
like it. Here are great sweeps of sandy land covered with coarse grass
and heather and pools of brackish water. The island is more or less
uncultivated, and the air is full of strange aromatic odours from the
sea. It is a marvellous place to bathe in: the sand is fine and soft
and yellow, and the sea lies wide open before you, warm and limpid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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