Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Santa Maria dei Miracoli might well mark the limit of our tour; but
if we go a short distance further into the Rio San Canciano we shall
come on three examples of the earlier domestic architecture of Venice,
which we shall do well not to miss. The first is a house by the Ponte
Widmann, dating from the ninth century. It is exceedingly picturesque,
with its long, low portico, and a profusion of Byzantine ornaments of
most varied device on the walls--weird lions and birds and oriental
beasts. The capitals of the window columns also are Byzantine, though
the balconies are Renaissance. We can also distinguish, though it is
immured, the ancient solario, or sun-terrace, which, in this house of
old Venice, was evidently of considerable beauty and extent. Passing
under another bridge after the Ponte Widmann, we come to the Ponte
Pasqualigo, and landing at the calle on the left, we have on the right
of us, only a few steps down, one of the oldest houses in Venice. So
well cared for is it by its present owners that we seem not to be
examining a relic, but to move in a living page of the past. On the
morning we saw it, the sun was streaming into the court and falling
on the Signora, who, in scarlet shawl, and with a brilliant kerchief
round her head, was dozing in the sun. She rose and gave us a cordial
welcome, and we climbed the outer stair, under an immense projecting
roof, into the garden hanging above the court, full of sunshine and
flowers; higher still, on the altana, was a bright line of clothing
hung out to dry. The structure of the ancient roof overhanging
the stair is very remarkable, with its secondary beams that jut
horizontally under a long cross-beam running the whole length of the
gallery. The rooms, which open out of one another from the terrace, are
rich also in beams, though now for the most part covered with a foolish
uniformity of ceiling. The floor of the reception room is, as usual,
paved with small variegated stones, but it is remarkable for occasional
little islands of mosaic, one of which, a tiny square of deep blue
and gold set diamond-wise, is a veritable gem of colour. Worthy to rank
with this hospitable, ample house of ancient Venice, is a courtyard
opening on the water, into which we pass immediately from the Ponte
Pasqualigo. The wooden barbicans of the projecting roof adjoining the
portico rest on pillars of fine earliest Gothic, grave and strong and
simple in their build. The sense that they are individuals bearing
the burden of the beams is increased by the fact that it is not
geometrically adjusted to their shoulders. It rests there because they
are willing; there is an understanding, a _combinazione_ between beam
and pillar, but the two were not mechanically made to fit.
[Illustration: A SIDE CANAL.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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