Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Returning to the Rio dei Miracoli we leave the church on our left, and
crossing the Rio Santa Marina and the Rio San Giovanni Grisostomo,
we pass directly into the Rio del Teatro, leaving the water-entrance
to Marco-Polo’s palace on our right. This corner is one of the most
beautiful in the canals of Venice. It is rich in palaces and fragments
of ancient ornament, and full of strange interplay of lights from the
many tortuous ways that converge here. There is a constant fascination
in the broad sweep of water at the crossways, in the problems of
traffic, in the warning cries that herald boat or barge passing
under the many bridges. There is perhaps no spot in Venice so full of
ancient mystery, of the gloom, the light, the sound and stillness of
her waterways. A little further on we pass into the Rio della Fava,
full also of delightful and unexpected corners; and looking back
from the Ponte di San’ Antonio we see the site of Mansueti’s picture
commemorating another miracle of the Holy Cross; or rather we see one
corner of the picture; for Mansueti has cut away the whole length of
a calle and all the houses between this bridge of San’ Antonio and
the Campo di San Lio, so that in his painting, for obvious artistic
reasons, the waters of the canal flow directly in front of the campo,
which he has narrowed to little more than a fondamenta. In a sketch
for this picture now in the Uffizi at Florence, Mansueti has more
faithfully transcribed the actual surroundings of the Campo di San
Lio. His picture illustrates a miracle of the Cross that would seem to
offer small scope for artistic treatment. A member of the Confraternity
of San Giovanni Evangelista, on being invited by another Brother to
attend the Cross in procession, impiously replied, “I will neither
accompany it, nor do I care whether it accompanies me.” Within a short
while, continues Flamino Corner, the perverse man died and the School
assembled for his burial; but when the procession reached the Ponte
di San Lio, the parish of the dead man, the Holy Cross became so heavy
that no force could avail to move it. While all stood appalled and
dismayed by such an occurrence, the friend of the dead man recalled the
impious words he had spoken, and made known the reason of the refusal
of the Cross. It was removed from the procession, and, the chronicler
informs us, withheld henceforth from any but public solemnities. In
Mansueti’s composition a number of Brothers are gathered on the bridge
attempting to drag the Cross, and the clergy of San Lio and a group
of citizens are waiting on the campo to receive it. There is much
quaintness in the rendering of this rather humorous incident, and
the picture is full of rich and homely detail, in the houses and in
the doings of their inhabitants, the chase of a cat, the hanging of
a clothes line, the stacking of the pliant rods on which the clothes
are hung. The windows, with closed or open gratings, are thronged
with onlookers, chiefly splendid ladies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account