Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
subtle apportioning of oak, elm, nut and larch, and long unbroken sides
of beech. Opposite the squero, on our right, is the ugly new brick wall
of Paolo Sarpi’s convent. Above it may be seen a weed-grown fragment of
the ancient building with its relief above the door. Boni has suggested
that a more appropriate memorial to Sarpi’s memory than the erection
of a bronze statue might have been the preservation or renewal in its
original beauty of the old convent with which he was so closely and
intimately connected.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF GRAND CANAL.]
We strike almost immediately into the Rio della Misericordia, and as
we look down the long vista to right and left of us, under the low
bridges, we begin to realise the peculiar character of this district.
It is entirely different from that of our first tour; long parallel
canals run from east to west, cutting the land into narrow strips and
giving the strips a curious effect of isolation. These canals are
bounded on the west by the lagoon, and the effect of sunset light
flooding the long waterways is strikingly beautiful. If we were to
follow the Rio della Misericordia to the left, we should come to the
curious wedge-shaped island of the Ghetto Nuovo and the tall deserted
houses of the Ghetto Vecchio. But we will tend only slightly to the
left, and passing under a low bridge continue our former course into
the Rio della Sensa. This name has in it echoes of historic festivals;
it originated in the fact that the stalls for the great Ascension
fête on the Piazza were stored in the warehouses that stood on its
banks. As late as the last celebration of this famous offshoot of the
Sposalizio festival, in the year 1776, fifty-seven thousand ducats were
spent on erecting the enclosure in which the stalls were set up. The
Rio della Sensa has many links with the past. Above a door in a humble
wall on the fondamenta hangs a shield on which is sculptured an arm
cased in steel. This shield belonged to the Brazzo (Braccio) family,
of Tuscan origin, who had settled in Venice and acquired much land in
this district. The name is worthy of preservation; for one at least
of the family has left an enduring mark in the annals of the city.
“In 1437,” we read in Tassini’s _Curiosità Veneziane_, “a Geoffrey da
Brazzo, with some companions, founded, in the Campo di SS. Giovanni e
Paolo, the Scuola di San Marco of which he was the Grand Guardian.”
Within the unpaved court the house of the worthy Geoffrey is still
standing, and it preserves its early Gothic and Byzantine features
but little obscured by later additions. It is not altogether gloomy
though evidently inhabited by very poor people; little gardens still
blossom from the leads and window boxes, and tables and chairs are set
out under the vine in the yard below. In the seventeenth century the
family became extinct, its history being closed by a rather sordid
domestic tragedy; and it is pleasanter to revert to the earlier days
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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