Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
of this simple, dignified citizen’s dwelling when Geoffrey and his
associates discussed in it the hopes and fears of their School. Another
page of Venetian history lies open for us at the Campo dei Mori further
along the same rio to the right. Our attention is attracted at once
by a curious figure in oriental turban, with a pack upon its head,
at the corner of the square which strikes the fondamenta. Two more
figures in the same style of dress are stationed at other corners of
the square. The crowd of urchins who throng round us the instant we
alight will tell us that these are Sior Rioba and his brothers. The
key to these figures is to be found in a palace, the inner court of
which opens on our right hand as we turn inwards from the canal. It
belonged to three Greek brothers, by name Rioba, Sandi and Afani, of
the family Mastelli, who leaving the Morea in the twelfth century, on
account of disturbances there, came with great wealth to Venice and
built themselves this house by the campo which has preserved their
origin in its name. This family also has a noble record in Venetian
annals. It took part in the Crusade of 1202, and received citizenship
for its reward. Later it rested from its labours and set up a spice
shop in Cannaregio at the sign of the Camel. From these avocations
it passed to a more reposeful existence on the banks of the Brenta,
and, like the da Brazzo family, it became extinct in the seventeenth
century. The courtyard of the palace, known now as the Palazzo Camello,
possesses many fascinating reminders of its past, though some of its
old beauties have been taken from it even in recent years. The open
arches of the sotto-portico have been filled in, and a corkscrew stair
is now only recognisable by the pillars we see immured in a circular
tower. The pillars that once supported the arches of the entrance
portico, now half buried in the ground from the constant raising of
its level, are fine and uncommon examples of the transition from
Gothic to Renaissance. Above the portico are two striking projections
of carved stone, once serving perhaps to support a lantern or coat
of arms, and in the angle of this wall and the main building are the
relics of a Gothic pedestal on which, without doubt, some image has
stood. The low-beamed court to the water is still intact with its
finely-carved architraves and early Gothic pillars; but beyond the
point of its present habitation it has been allowed to fall into decay
from the invading damp. If we venture along this outer court to the
water’s edge, we shall find ourselves in the Rio della Madonna dell’
Orto almost opposite the campo and church. By the help of a barge
which we may reasonably hope to find moored alongside the water-door
of the court, we obtained a view of the most characteristic aspect of
the Palazzo Camello. The passer-by on the fondamenta cannot fail to
be impressed by its beautiful decorative balcony and windows and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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