Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Torcello is a _città morta_, but scarcely a cemetery or a ruin. Relics
of a past older than even Torcello has known are gathered into the
humble urn of her museum; beside it stands abandoned, but not in ruins,
the group of the cathedral buildings and the vast secular campanile;
beyond this there is nothing but the soil--the golden gardens of vine
and pomegranate, the fields of maize and artichokes between their
narrow canals. The intervening period has entirely vanished; it is like
a dream. The page of populous palatial Torcello has been blotted out as
if it had had no existence. No vestige remains of the churches which in
the old maps flourished along the chief canal, of the names which in
the documents have no unsubstantial sound. None now can remember the
time when the spoiler was busy among the ruined palaces; he too has
passed into the shadows, and the very stones of Torcello are scattered
far and wide. There is something mysterious in this complete wiping out
of a page of history, so that not time only, but even the mourners of
time have disappeared. There is something unique in the isolation of
the cathedral and the campanile, rising thus out of the far past--this
mighty masonry alone among the herbs of the field. Of her great history
Torcello brings only the first page and the last, the duomo, the
peasants’ houses and the thatch shelters of their boats. Wandering
along the grassy paths beside the vineyards, the pomegranates, the
golden thorn bushes of Torcello, we seem in a sleepy pastoral land
where the sun always shines. Torcello seems ripe, rich ground for a new
life rather than the cemetery of an old; and we may feed the fancy as
we will, for she does not refuse her doom; she has no hard contrasts of
the old and new.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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