Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
lain now so long deserted, a presence from which the stream of life has
flowed away, carrying with it all the agitations of joy and sorrow,
that among the fluctuating marshes the key for its deciphering has been
lost.
As we have said, whole pages are torn from the history of Torcello.
Fragments only remain. But here and there is a word or two that may
be gathered into a sentence. If we approach the island from the east,
by the waterway between Sant’ Erasmo and Tre Porti instead of by the
narrow channels of the inner lagoon, we may receive some impression
of the relation it once bore to the mainland. We may see how Torcello
stands as the entrance of the lagoon north of Venice, the last outpost
of the mainland, the first-fruits of a new career--recognise that she
was once through the Portus Torcellus in closest touch with the high
seas. In the ninth century it was one Rustico of Torcello who combined
with Buono of Malamocco to carry the bones of St. Mark from Alexandria
to Venice. In 1268 Torcello is specially mentioned by da Canale among
the “Contrees, que armerent lor navie, et vindrent a lor signor Mesire
Laurens Teuple (Lorenzo Tiepolo) li haut Dus de Venise, et a Madame la
Duchoise” on the occasion of Tiepolo’s election. Torcello contributed
three galleys completely equipped for the Genoese war, and in 1463 sent
one hundred crossbowmen in the service of the Republic against Trieste.
What is left of this city, which shared the early glory if not the
later pomp of Venice? Where are her palaces, her gardens, her bridges,
her waterways? Where are her piazzas and calles and fondamentas, her
churches and rich convents? We pass their names in the old chronicles:
Piazza del Duomo, Rio Campo di San Giovanni, Fondamenta dei Borgognoni,
Calle Santa Margherita, Fondamenta Bobizo, Ponte di Chà Delfino, Ponte
de Pino, and the rest. Many of these were of very old foundation: their
stones and traces of their construction have been discovered from time
to time under the mud of the canals. In the poor houses of the peasants
traces still remain of original windows, cornices and pillars; the main
canal is still spanned by the beautiful ruined bridge of the Diavolo.
But for the rest the grass piazza with its little group of buildings,
its museum flanked by the cathedral, is the sole echo, itself no more
than an echo of the past.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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