Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
green and gold that writhes and gleams hour after hour in the faintly
stirred depths of the canal, a creature that in the world above is a
dull grey upright pole; or of golden treasures, once the refuse of the
calli, transformed to splendour as they float out over the lagoon; or
of the sudden lapping of the water under the wind down the north lagoon
at midnight, that breaks the smooth image of the moon into a thousand
ripples and passes in a wave that makes the dim lamps tremble into the
narrow waterways of the city.
But it is not only the waterways of Venice that at night are eloquent
of the past, that seem to take once more their ancient shape and
venture near for colloquy: the streets and squares and churches are
full of spirits, not unkindly, not afraid, less silent and secretive
than in the busy day, when they are lonely among a people careless of
them, with other thoughts, other needs and other destinies. Many a
porch or gable or wide-projecting roof, or sculpture of fantastic beast
or naïve saint or kneeling angel, seems to step out and call upon us in
the night, catching in us perhaps as we pass by some touch of sympathy
with the enduring soul of the past. One must be late indeed in Venice
to secure untroubled peace. Ever and again, even after midnight, the
silence of the great white campos is broken by a group scattered here
and there before the door of a café; voices in eager talk will echo
under a low portico, a sleepy child will clatter by in wooden pattens.
But in the low-beamed, dimly lighted courts, or on the dark steps at
the water-side, under some deserted sotto-portico, the sounds of the
present strike across us like distant voices in a dream. The one night
that lies over all the ages draws our spirit into harmony with these
stones and lapping waters, that have stood through change and stress of
time, that have outlived solemnity and joyous festival and have passed
from gentle usage and glorious vesture into the custody of the poorest,
into neglect and decay. What talk have not these courtyards overheard,
what rich vesture has not swept through them, what noble thoughts and
high hopes have not confided in their silence? And on the dirty steps
where the children sit and play and throw their refuse into the water,
what carpets have not been spread, what proud feet have not pressed to
pass into the gondola and join the triumphant processional of Venice in
her prime?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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